Stay Stitching the Bodice
It's finally time to actually sit down and use our sewing machine I find that my students get a little bit discourage how much there is to do before this point but once we're here it's really satisfying to actually start working on our riel dress at this point so we're going to start right at the beginning of our instructions step one we're gonna work with say, stitching you may or may not have done stays teaching before so let's learn what stay stitching is searching essentially is stabilizing the threads of the fabric before we actually so the garment together so on the neckline like right here this is a scoop and the angle right in here is with the fabric actually on the bias because it's curving the sciences the stretchy is part of the fabric so when we're working with our peace we don't want to stretch the fabric out while we're handling it and selling it though I do want to point out the importance of still being buried very careful and cautious about how you handle these pieces ...
even after you've stayed stitched it because it's really easy to accidentally stretch out the neckline and then have it just be gaping and that's just because you were talking at it and trying it on and stuff like that while you're sewing it so you still want to be very, very cautious of how you handle the neckline at this point so what we're going to do is stay stitch meaning stitch ah siri's of stitches around those parts of the garment to stabilize the threads we're going to do it on the neckline front we're going to do it on the back of the bodice the neckline and we're also going to do it around the skirt of you be so the instructions in any pattern should tell you where to do that stay stitching because it needs to be inside the seam allowance but also inside the area where it's being finished so this is actually gonna be finished with bias finding in the end so I need that stays team to be inside where I intend to sew my bias finding later so in the instructions you'll see that I've instructed you to so the state's teaching at a quarter inch steam allowance so another really really important part is sowing in the direction where the stretch is going to be consistent so on the bias are on the front of the bodice we're going to so from shoulder to center front and stop and then we're going to take it out and starts so from the other shoulder to send her front we don't want to so from shoulder to so shoulder because the fabric on the right will stretch in that direction in the left will stretch in the opposite direction and so we want them if they're going to stretch in any way to be consistent from side to side the same is going to be true on the back piece we're goingto do our state's teaching from shoulder to center back so you can see here I already have it I'm going from the shoulder to the center back and we're going to repeat that on the other back pieces well so that again if this stretches they stretch symmetrically that's really important so I've already done it on the back neckline peace but now we're going to do it on the front so like I just mentioned we're going to go from shoulder to send her friend and stop and then again from shoulder to center front but there's a really important thing that happens in the center and I will show you that when we get to it we're going to use just a regular straight stitch so I'm using a two point five stitch length for this I personally don't back such this part because not a construction stitch I also know some sores that like to use a based length stitch which is like a four or longer but I find that that actually isn't strong enough to hold the threads of the fabric together because it's such a long stitch we actually wanted to be a nice regular tight stitch so that the threads of the fabric remain in place so we're going to use a quarter inch seam allowance and as I'm sewing I have my peace here in front of me again I don't want to let this bodice draped down and you can see this just wants to stretch here I want to make sure you keep the weight up on the on my table so that I'm minimizing any stretch that's gonna happen while I'm sewing in, so I'm not going to back such I'm just going to sell this on a quarter inch seam allowance and I'm just starting at the shoulder and I am eyeballing where my center point is if you're not feeling comfortable without you, khun totally market with a water soluble pencil, but we want to just get roughly to the center now. This is the important part I was talking about when I pull this out, I don't want to actually grab the fabric and yank it because then I'm just going to stretch it. The whole point of this is to print vented from stretching, so I'm gonna pull this up and I'm actually going to grab the threat itself and pull from there, so any pressure is from this point as opposed to from here stretching on the fabric again, I'm not back team, I'm just gonna cut that threat and I'm going to repeat that on the other side because I have to flip the fabric it's now going to be wrong side up but that's not a video when I reached my other threat, gonna stop and again, grab it from that point being really careful not to stretch the fabric out when the clip those threads at the very beginning. And so now there is stay stitching around my neck line, going from shoulder to center friend. So we're going to do this on. But the bodice front, as I just demonstrated the back neckline for the bodice, as well as all the skirt pieces for view, be so on the skirt front. We're going to go from side seem to center, just like we did here, where we do it in two stitches and then on the back, will go from side, seem to center back as well again, all in the quarter, and seem allowance. Novak sticks, no back stitch necessary, and then we're ready to begin our construction.