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Fujifilm X-Pro2 Fast Start

Lesson 23 of 26

Set Up Menu

 

Fujifilm X-Pro2 Fast Start

Lesson 23 of 26

Set Up Menu

 

Lesson Info

Set Up Menu

All right, folks, it is now time to dig in to the really big menu on the camera, which is the set up in you. And so this is gonna have, I think, just one page at just one page of information, but each page is gonna lead to another sub page off mawr information. And so there's a lot of ways to customize the camera, so it is relatively complicated in here. Luckily, this is a one time thing for most people you're gonna go through, you're going to set your camera the way you want it, and you'll probably never need to come back. There's gonna be some modes. You may want to come back, but most of them are one time set, and then we're gonna be done. So let's take a look at what we got in here. First up is our user settings. And so these air settings that you as a personal user may want to adjust. And I don't completely agree with the naming system on all this, but I got to go with it cause I'm teaching the class. All right, so first option is formatting the memory cards. Now we did see a shor...

tcut earlier about pressing the garbage can button for two seconds and then hitting the back control wheel. But if you want to do it in the menu system, come into format, you'd select either slot one or slot to format the memory card in either of those particular slots. Next up is setting the date and time on our camera, obviously set as needed here. Remember that this, even though your camera has a WiFi system, does not connect up with local WiFi systems to get the automatic date and time when you're traveling to new time zones or when there's a daylight savings time change, for instance. And so this is something that you want to change if you want to have accurate information in your camera if you are traveling rather than changing the date and time, you can change the time difference. If there is a place that you travel to on a regular basis, you could have it said, is your home or excuse me as your local and then leave your home as whatever your home date Time is set for all the different languages. We have different choices in here and then a very important one. My menu settings. And so the last tab that we're gonna be getting to is called my menu. And you can have two pages, eight items apiece for a total of 16 items. And you can select what items you want in there, and you can rank them in there. And so let's do a little demo with our camera here so that I can show you what this looks like. Let me go ahead and turn my camera on. Let me jump into the menu system. And if I go over to the left, let me go down to my menu, which is currently great out. You can see down here that there is nothing in there, so I want to go into user settings, and I'm going to go into my menu setting, and I'm gonna add some items. Now, what are items that I would normally wanna have in there? So image quality Do I want to change between Raw and J. Peg? Yeah, I do want it do that sometimes. So I'm gonna go in here and select this by saying okay. And so I got a check mark And what about film simulation. Well, yeah, I might want to do that from time to time, so I'll select that one. I don't really use grain effect that much. White balance already has a shortcut button on the camera. I don't need that. Let's find something else. I'm gonna leave him. A lot of these things turned off, so let's just find a few more in here. Number of focusing points. Maybe I want to change that one. Okay. And now okay. If I want to add in, let's add in just a couple more f illuminator. I don't normally use that, but we'll just say that I dio and manual focus assist. This one's nice to have in there. Okay, so now that I'm in here, I can go ahead and rank these items. And so if I want my a f illuminator number one, I can click it and I can move it up to number one. If I think image quality is one that I want to have down at the bottom, I could move it down to the bottom and so you can select anyone, and you could move it up and down and you can reorganize the list, and you can do this for 16 items or eight items on two different pages. And this is a great way for you to avoid diving into the menu system and forgetting where things are on. So I like to have as many of those things that I normally go to on a regular basis, done right. So in my menu, right in my menu system here. And so this is where you need to do it. And it's why it's currently great out and probably a lot of your cameras. And so I highly encourage you to go select as many items is that you would normally use on a regular basis and put him in there. Put him in a nice high arc away. Organize all your data in there, so it's very easy to get to all of those particular features. So that is the my menu setting. So get in there and rank all your things and move them around sensor cleaning so the camera automatically cleans the sensor when it's turned on and off, or when you come in here and press OK, you can select it to either do it when it's on or off. Whatever your preference is, I will also mention that you may may need to manually clean the sensor at some point down the road. I would encourage everyone having at least step one ready, which is an air blower. These air, not the compressed air's because that can put propellants onto your sensor and potentially damage. This is just a little mechanical rubber bulb that you blow air on the sensor, trying to knock off any dust or anything like that that is there. If you are a little bit more ambitious and you're careful with your hands and you're good at fixing things, you might want to go to Step two, which is a swab and liquid, and there's a variety of systems out there. This is the one that tends to do the best job that I've seen over the years, and what you do is you get these swabs, which are from a clean factory, and then you put a drop of alcohol on it, and you swipe across the sensor cleaning the sensor, and this is something that you hopefully won't need to do. But occasionally, ah, sticky piece of something gets stuck on that sensor, and this is the only way to get it off. If you don't feel comfortable doing this, you can get the camera to a decent repair shop, and it will take care of this for you. But that's basically the system that it's going to use if you want to reset your camera. If you have not been paying attention for the last hour and you've been messing with your camera, resetting all the controls in various ways, you can go in and reset everything that is in the shooting menu. Or you can reset everything that is in the set up men you by going in here and resetting all the features of the camera back to the factory default system. So that was the user setting menu within, set up all right. Next setting is sound set up, which brings us into yet another sub menu. All right, the autofocus beep volume. So when your camera focuses, it gives you a little chirp chirp. It's kind of handy lets you know when the camera is focussed, and then it gets a little tiring after you've been using the camera a few times and it gets a little annoying to other people around you. If your camera is constantly beeping all the time, it's about as enjoyable as other people's phone ringing all the time. And so this is something that I would highly recommend turning off when the camera is in a self timer mode. Occasionally, it's kind of nice to have the beep turn off so that you know, exactly or sound so that you know when the picture is gonna be taking. If you don't need it, you can turn it off, which is where I usually like to leave it, unless I specifically need it for some particular job that I'm doing. The operational volume has to do with selecting items in the menu. It normally has a little bit of a sound confirmation that you pressed the button not really necessary. Once again, I like to be discreet with my camera. Leave a lot of those sounds turned off so that I'm not disturbing other people around me. Earlier in the class, I was playing around with shutter volume. If you are using the silent shudder, the Elektronik shutter in the camera, the camera wants to add a shutter sound so that you know that you actually took a picture kind of an audio confirmation that you saw the picture. If you do want truly silent sound with the Elektronik center, you want to turn the shutter volume here off. If you want to leave it on a little bit so you can still hear it. I can understand that because when you have it on perfectly silent, there is virtually no noise, and it's hard to tell if you're shooting a photo. But once again, my preference is for the least amount of noise possible. Now, if you do have a shutter sound that you are making, you do get to choose between three different sound effects that the camera will use as to what type of shutter. And so there is no turning this off. If the setting above this shutter volume is turned off, you won't hear this. But if it has turned on, this is the one that you would hear. Then we'll have playback volume. So if you are playing back a movie, how loud is it? This is sort, of course, something that you can change when you are doing the playback of the video by pressing the menu button and then pressing up and down to adjust volume on the fly at that time. And so those are the different sound options within the camera. Next up, it's gonna be a long one. This is the screen set up. There's a lot of different options on how we can set up the various screens in the camera. First option is E V F. Brightness, so the brightness of the viewfinder that you look through normally, I would set this on manual because a lot of people are judging exposure through the brightness when they're looking at the IV E f. And you don't want that going up and down. Just because a small amount of light has eked in through the back corner of the lens are back corner of the view. You find her there, and so I would recommend this in manual for most people in most cases, if you've noticed, the color doesn't seem to be quite right, and it's not the white balance setting. It's something else. Maybe, maybe the your cameras quite old, and the DVF has started to fade in color, where you can tweak the color if you need to, I hope. And I expect that you will not need to use this, but it is there in case you do need it. The LCD is the big screen on the back of the camera and once again, like the E V f, you can control the brightness if necessary to start with, I would leave it at zero. Same thing with the color of it if it drifts in color. If you don't like the color of it, you can drift it to a either a cooler or warmer look to it. So for image display, interesting question here after you shoot a photo, do you want to look at it on the back of the camera Now, with the older SL ours. We always did want to do it because we'd shoot a picture and we're looking through an optical viewfinder. Well, we want to see what the Elektronik digital version is of that photograph. What does it look like? Was my white balance set properly? Was my exposure set properly, But with an electronic viewfinder, you are getting a preview of the final image and you don't really need to look at every image after you shot it, because you get to see what it looks like beforehand. It might be handy if you're trying to time something and you want to see if you got the timing of it correctly. But for a lot of the shots, this is just changing the workflow of using a muralist camera to make it a little bit quicker. So I think are more advanced. Users are probably gonna want to turn this off so they can look at their image. Judge, if it's right, shoot it and go on to the next night. Now, if you do want to check it, you might want to set it at 1. seconds. That gives you a good chance just to quickly check it to see if it was basically the way you want it. And so, if I think for most of our users, though, you might want to start, try turning this off that way a little bit quicker, going from shot to shot, not worried about so much with the last shot look like dvf auto rotate displays. This is a cool feature on Fuji's and maybe one other brand of cameras, so when you turn the camera vertically. If you have this turned off, all the numbers and the exposure reading are sideways, and you gotta turn your head sideways. Or at least you have to kind of think sideways to make sure that it works, right. If you turn this on it, adjust the displays for you holding the camera vertically. Now the only time that I would turn this off is if I am shooting from either a very low positions shooting straight up or from a very high position shooting straight down. And I might be tilting the camera ever so slightly, and it's changing on me in a way that I don't really like. But for normal hand held photography, I think most people will appreciate having this turned on previewing the exposure or white balance in the manual mode. And so when you're shooting with this camera in a manual mode, question is is when you look through the viewfinder, do you want the best possible view possible? Or do you want a realistic view that shows you what the final image is gonna look like? And there are reasons for both, So if you want a preview the exposure and white balance, which is the way that I like to work with the camera. It is a preview of your final picture. You get to see it before you've actually taken the photo. You get to see if it's too bright to dark, whether you've chosen the right or wrong white balance. Now there is an option where you are simply previewing the white balance, but it's corrected the exposure to give you an optimum exposure. And then there's another one where it corrects for everything to give you the best possible view, which does make shooting very easy. But it also makes mistakes very easy toe happen because you're not getting a preview of what the White balance is gonna look like. And so, if you were working in a studio with flash photography or with flash photography anywhere, there's a good chance that you're gonna wanna have this turned off. That way, you can get a decent look through the viewfinder. Your strokes can fire off and still get a decent exposure. And so, for the typical daylight natural light shooter, preview exposure and White Balance is going to be the most popular city If you're working with Flash, that's when you would probably want to turn it off. Preview picture effects. And so this is very similar to what we just talked about in the last one, and here we have the choice of turning it on or off. And the question is, Is all those film modes and the adjustments that you can make? Two pictures? Do you want to be able to see that in the viewfinder or on the LCD of the camera or not, and so on allows you to see film use simulation and white balance in the back of the camera. Off those images, adjustments are not visible, and that might make it easier to compose or for manual focusing. Now, if you do choose monochrome that will be shown, or if you do use any of the advanced filters that were shown most cases, I think people are gonna want to see what their final photos are going to look like as their composing them. So I recommend leaving this turned on as well, continuing on on screen settings, we have a second page in the sub menu. If you were to choose a framing guideline Which guideline would you like? This isn't turning it on or off. It's just choosing. Which one would you prefer to have? The nine Grid 24 grid or the HD frame me, and this is a very much a personal preference, but I do like the nine grid for that good old rule of thirds framing, composition, aid, auto rotate playback. So when you play back an image, do you want the image rotated for you? And so if you leave this turned on, it will rotate vertical images so that you can look at him on the back of your camera in a horizontal passion, which is convenient. But it makes the image really small in size, and I think it's better to turn it off because it's very simple just to turn the camera vertically and see that image in its largest size that it can get to because you probably want to judge it in the best way possible. And that means having the largest image possible on the camera. By leaving that turned off, you can choose either meters or feet on the scale, that focusing depth of field scale that we looked at earlier which is an option that we can turn on and off so you'll be able to go in to the display custom setting and choose what type of items you see in either the optical viewfinder or the electronic viewfinder. Slash LCD on the back of the camera. And so you can go through here and check on or off all the different items that you might wanna have in there that you either like or dislike. So if there's a feature that you never use, you can go in and uncheck that.

Class Description


We know what it’s like to dive right into taking pictures with your new camera. But dense technical manuals make for a terrible first date. Get the most out of your new Fuji X-Pro2 with this complete step-by-step walkthrough of the camera’s features.

Join expert photographer John Greengo for a fast-track introduction, and unlock your camera’s full potential.  In this class you'll learn:

  • How to work with a mirrorless camera
  • How to master the improved video features
  • How to use and customize the menus
John is a CreativeLive veteran instructor and an experienced photographer. He has extensive experience teaching the technical minutiae that makes any camera an effective tool: aperture, ISO, the Rule of Thirds, and the kinds of lenses you’ll need to suit your camera body. This Fast Start includes a complete breakdown of your camera’s exposure, focus, metering, video and more. John will also explain how to customize the Fuji X-Pro2’s settings to work for your style of photography.  

Reviews

MInna
 

WOW how I wish I had this to begin with!!!! Between manual and smart tip overload via books and U Tube, as well as, class instructor snafus I pretty much felt like an idiot. After this class not so much. Great job .

a Creativelive Student
 

I have the X Pro 2 for over a year and I thought that I might get more information on how to use it more efficiently. Boy this is a great course! I learned a lot and I loved the hidden feature :) Highly appreciated John and CL!

Jon Wiggens
 

A comprehensive walk through of the X-Pro 2. John did a great job of going through each and every setting on the camera and gave lots of helpful tips and tricks that I never would have known about had I relied solely on the manual.