Pattern Draping: Drape Folds
So here I am going to get a little bit more creative I'm gonna have a little bit more fun with with the drape and this is just to show you that you have freedom there's a lot of people go I don't want that perfect little tight top you know I want to drape and do something a little bit more dramatic so for instance, I'm gonna work uh with the bias and bring that over and one of the reasons I like the bias here is like notice what's happening it's not a flat fold its a little role and it gives you when we locked in in the historical pieces you know, the togas and the roman greco kind of clothing and that just is that has that soft roll which you don't get with just on grain, okay? S so here the other thing I like about this is that if I were to do start to create folds I got these beautiful rolling foals they're not hard, they don't crease and they start to drape around the body and we're just gonna do a rough of this but then I'm going to show you that the process afterwards is exactly ...
the same and we want to figure out what we wanted to do and a lot of times I will take my cues from the fabric so here this is naturally smoothing out but here it might turn into more of a fold that's controlled and then we can decide how loose is a little extra in there how loose the rest of it isthe and what you want to do here is the same exact thing you want to take whatever you sculpted and go back at corners an arm hole at the waistline wherever we're going to go and just have it be and do exactly the same thing but here we have something very sculpted and more three dimensional but it's the same process so don't feel like it everything has to be flat and right to the body you can kind of play with a shape so that you can do anything you want and getting back to when we talked about at the beginning think about the nature of the fabric that you're working with you really want to make sure that the fabric is doing what you wanted to do so just to show you a different a different thing with the same design idea that is a weird shot look at me from above okay, so we did that on the bias but what if we were to do that fold and again there's no writer wrong it's just a different effect but if we were to take the straight grain and do this right away it gets sharper and a little flatter and both can be really pretty but this is more uh this has less of a three dimensional quality it becomes almost more like pleading does everybody see the difference right so it's a different feel and that's why draping is such a great process because this you can do with numbers this you can do you don't have to have a dress form to do this you can do this by making sure you have every measurement length all that and do the actual math of it with something like this you could do it by numbers but you're not going to get the field that you want you know you wanna have I like that tactile quality not all designers drape some designer is depending on the sound of their clothes will go strictly pattern okay, so we're going to bring back to cover for our next the difference between dripping and patterning like is it is it one that you're just kind of free flow how did making kind of falls under the heading of draping even though it's a separate skill but the idea is you're creating a pattern but finish patterns are usually are not usually fabric because we could save that muslin but it can like we notice when we talked about the fabric it can get distorted it can warp and you say to get droopy and hanging so that is one of the reasons it's so important to transfer everything over to paper and initially we work with with a light dotted paper. But eventually for really important patterns for really important patterns, you will transfer them over to oak tag so that they have a longer life span. And you can always come back. And, you know, go to them and modified, which we're going to do a little bit of it. It's. Just a second.
Interested in the world of fashion? Even if you're not an aspiring fashion designer, you’ll enjoy this class. Jay Calderin is the Director of Creative Marketing and an instructor at the School of Fashion Design. He is the author of three top-selling books on Fashion Design, and the founder and executive director of Boston Fashion Week.
In Fashion Design: Start to Finish, Jay Calderin will get you started through hands-on demonstrations and step-by-step guidelines.
Learn to navigate through the design process, from conceiving a garment to marketing it.
The various phases of fashion design will be covered, including:
- research and mood boards, collections and trends
- sketching, draping, pattern making, construction
- branding, marketing, and industry positioning
Fashion doesn’t have to be intimidating. This class is a beginners guide to the world of fashion design, led by an industry professional.