Pattern Flat: Create and True a Pattern
This is dotted paper it actually not dots it's actually little numbers and letters but it gives you this grid format formats to work with and where did I lose my bodice where'd she go oh she's still in the figure so we would take this let's move her away and move on to pattern I mean to the flat pattern and at the flat pattern we did a little true ing like we corrected corners and all that kind of stuff on the fabric but the truth is no matter how good we are that's not going to be quite enough you know, like when we get to the final pattern because we really wanted to be sort of almost mechanical you know? So they're all interlocks like a good really, really good puzzle and there are a lot of different methods to doing this but the first thing you would do is line up your center along one of the dotted lines and nice and flat and the first thing you can actually do is trace over the keeper of the key points the way we did here so you can do corners and oh, I didn't have any seam allow...
ance done here, so I'm gonna leave this here okay? So you can transfer over a paper once you feel comfortable that you've got all the information on it and actually draw it out theo use blue because the papers blew you want to line it up is best possible and it's pretty much exactly what we did with the fabric right but once we start to do all this information I'm sorry I forgot my dots once you start to do all this you can make sure all your corners air squared that the back lines up with the the front piece so there were on this bodice we'd have a peace that lines up with the side seam from the back and we have the shoulder so we need to make sure that those transitions though seems happen and the transitions or smooth so you don't have any jagged peaks or or or dips e I think we've got everything transferred this over ok and then you do this uh their different ways to doing this you could do this with um uh carbon would you can have with a tracing wheel to transfer over all your markings some people do it with pins some people uh kind of do it by eye they're all different methods but at this point the true ing is the most important thing for me anyway and again for newbies yes true ing is corrected by making everything true we want to make sure that everything is is just right so this would be the transfer method we go in again with our tools and as I mentioned just like with the sketching class there is this is many many um semesters of of class work which I'm sure the draping teachers at my school are going to give me a hard time about when they get back it's like you made it so simple there's more to it well that's I mean that's that's the whole point here is that you're showing us this breath of all the things that are possible to learn and how to go about starting all right clearly because I think I mean I think this if you take it step by step it feels less intimidating if you think I'm just following my guy it's you know on the figure and I'm just correcting everything making sure everything matches it's a simple process but people get kind of scared off when you think oh I'm making a garment all these pieces how do they go together so all right so here we get something that looks a little bit more like are finished pattern it's like cooking shows there's one done already so it looks a little bit oh this one has two darts but basically it has all the guidelines and this is actually the lining so um it can have several darts that can have whatever kind of designed it actually is but basically this is the middle step to get into this one and you can store these thieves end up being like you know when you have ah store about patterns you know that air flattened foldable and fallible so this could be a step but I highly recommend that once you get certain patterns that are really working for you and fitting people in a great way that you save those you know you make sure those are protected and stored well so you um are those templates that you would use for many, many different cater's then yes you don't have to do a new one every time you're doing no actually you know what I'm gonna do that right now here we go alright so thiss one speaks to fabric manipulation so I have march anyway day to awkwardly stretch so okay it's your turn apologies no no no okay, so here again this is super simple but I think you'll get kind of a picture of it I'm goingto trace over the parts that I know are going to be fairly stable and you want to ask yourself how I could move this dart right? So I'm going to trace over all my information I think I got this may still in the shot you better come over so here I'm gonna finish this off. Okay? So now this is the fun part we can cut and you know, once you've done all that hard work of that basic and it's like a magic trick so just be a minute to cut this out and what we're gonna do is we're gonna move that dart because right now that dart is coming into her ways, but we can put it wherever way want. And this is another great detail. They did it a lot. This is where, again, the fashion history keep plugging the fashion history. Because it's, just so, um, it's such a such great information in it, this is during the forties during war time, where you could only use so much fabric. This is how you can create original dresses because you have this basic little bodice, but by changing the darts or adding darts, you could make it really special. All right, so here I want to start somewhere else so that its really simple I want this start to come let's, say to the neckline. Christ, I want the line here. So from this apex, you draw that line, and then you close this one and you've kept all you're fit all the hard work that you did for the original is still there. And actually I think I have a slide that shows the process. Uh, well, this was more. This is more about what we talked about, the direction of the fabric, the bias and the cross grain, those of the pieces, and then here we have sort of the method of slashing it. I have it on the shoulder and this one but this is your new pattern piece. And it comes together exactly the same way. Because the minute you clothes that you have with bodies start but it's at the at the neckline.
Interested in the world of fashion? Even if you're not an aspiring fashion designer, you’ll enjoy this class. Jay Calderin is the Director of Creative Marketing and an instructor at the School of Fashion Design. He is the author of three top-selling books on Fashion Design, and the founder and executive director of Boston Fashion Week.
In Fashion Design: Start to Finish, Jay Calderin will get you started through hands-on demonstrations and step-by-step guidelines.
Learn to navigate through the design process, from conceiving a garment to marketing it.
The various phases of fashion design will be covered, including:
- research and mood boards, collections and trends
- sketching, draping, pattern making, construction
- branding, marketing, and industry positioning
Fashion doesn’t have to be intimidating. This class is a beginners guide to the world of fashion design, led by an industry professional.