Draping and Patterning Recap
I just want to talk about taylor driven versus textile driven and pattern driven with taylor driven we did that in the first example we did a garment that taylor to the body and we noticed we cut away a lot of things but but with textile driven, the strategy is a little different tailor driven is kind of more of a european concept where people would cut into a kn actual textile but we have this beautiful fabric right here that's a margaux, right? Yeah this's your fabric and this is just so exquisite it's wanted to show it to you but this is something that I would be really hesitant to cut into for any reason whatsoever if I could avoid it I would try to save this is a cz much as possible. So I mean it has a lot of great factors. It plays into textile driven as well as pattern driven because it has a border so your whole design process could be built about around the actual pattern and saying I want this to go like this I want this to go like this. I want this on the bottom. I want this...
to be a jacket or it lines up like this so you can use the fabric is inspiration. A lot of designers are very textile oriented and that's their starting point today we've gone through a process of mood boards and it's sketching and pattern making, but for some people, they'd start with the actual fabric. So for your pattern making this could be a guide and and getting back to textile driven there's a lot. There are a lot of cultures, uh, I know of one incredible designer, carlo fernandez, who works with indigenous communities to figure out how they work. And a lot of times you can get the quality of something fitted or draping around the body by tucking and pleading, and something that, in theory you could then take apart and the fabric is still intact. Ah, lot of textiles, textiles were the real valuable thing in history when it comes to fashion, and passing them on was a tradition. So you would have a skirt, a beautiful big skirt that has been all pleaded untucked and your daughter or or the next season. You know, the next, you know, ten years later, some like that you want a different fashion, you can take it apart, and that fabric is still intact. And you see that in in in kind of cultural dressing, like through saris and kills. Kilts originally were all just folded fabric that was belted, they weren't sewn down, so they were they were all draped around the body. So you want to remember those things sometimes you don't want to touch to cut into the fabric because it could be really valuable and very beautiful to work with its natural properties. So and this is again, one school of thought, very driven she well, she the dress must follow the body of a woman and not the body following the shape of a dress that is one school of thought. But then you also want to think about how you can have garments that have different relationships to the body. So they maybe this shape, that the body is sort of suspended in so you can have things that go away from the body or conformed to the body. So and we've done all this, measuring both on the dress form and on paper. Andi, I just wanted to kind of, uh, note that with technology, they're all these really cool different tools to get very exact measurements. This is a graphic for body scanner where you go in and it scans your entire body and measures every little part of you, and then it can actually generate information for creating pattern. It's so and those are things that normally someone would do with a tape measure and measure all you know, the horizontal lines, all the vertical lines but it could be really pretty amazing body scatter like at the airport? Yes, except except not so so well maybe intends depends on how you feel about your reverence that no thinking technology has actually been around for a while, but but it's still not common it's still not a common thing, but it is the way things are moving, you know, because I think eventually you'd have a scanner like that you could punch it would punch in all the information to a computer that has thes these patterns in there. And a computer would calculate all the, you know, the changes, and then a three d printer would print it out, you know? So in theory I can see that happening in the future, you know, the way things were going allright. So asai mentioned measurements of the foundation so so important to take measurements and to take accurate measurements the slope er's we talked about being these basic patterns, and we saw how we could take a basic pattern and manipulate it, and then we've saved all that great hard work that we've done to make sure we have great fit and true ing precision corrections like really being focused on that we did the manipulations just now. Digital as well. A lot of this is actually me at our school, and we have a plotter where we will take a pattern like this, and all these manipulations can be done in the computer, and the computer is also really good at correcting your corrections. Like if you're off by an eighth of an inch, you can figure that out and make that correction to have a really accurate pattern. And one of the nice thing about digital, just sort of like images, is that digital and measurements translate across. You know, any culture, any country. So if you have a good image and you have good measurements, you know, in a good pattern, anyone around the world can figure out how to make that garment for you if you're working in the industry.