Signing with an Agency
Let's see. I want to talk about what to expect when you get signed. Okay? With an agency. And how does it all work? The difference between a boutique agency versus a huge agency, commercial agency, Versace, A fashion agency. Um, and it's really important to understand, because if you're trying to really grow in different markets, you need to understand how they work. The one of the questions that we had before the break was if I am signed with an agency and my hometown or locally, can I sign to another agency? Yes, if they allow you to. And if you have not signed an exclusive agreement with that agency that you're not allowed to leave them. And I did have one for a super long time, and it can work in benefit or could work against you, meaning that they are your mother agency. Once I sign with, you know, Model X agency, I need to have a clear understanding of how long am I contracted with them? What are they expecting for me as a model? Can I go work in Hong Kong? Okay. When the seasons...
just great. Can I move to Miami when the seasons slow in New York. You need to read everything clearly because you're gonna have some agencies who don't want to own you exclusively. They're not really even sure. If they want to represent you, they're going to be testing you out. Then you have other, the other side of where they only want to own you. They're not gonna let anyone, you know mold you. They wanna have every opportunity to promote you. And you have to make sure they're really going to be doing that. Because if you end up being exclusive with someone and you're kind of having six months without a booking, you need to ask yourself, Do what's going on here? Can I go to another agent? Should I find someone else is gonna work on my behalf Also, if you're going abroad, super important. Um, after top model, I had a few offers to go to Asia, which would have been awesome. I was hosting TV at the time. I didn't want to lose my TV contacts. I'm sure I would have made a lot more money going to Asia. But for me, I was enjoying hosting. I was enjoying fashion reporting. I wanted to kind of, you know, stay in the city. And I didn't really understand what what really goes on when you go abroad. I mean, you get a glimpse of it when you watch America's next top model, right? All of the girls get a chance to go to a fashion capital somewhere in the world. Um, we went to Milan, and I would never want to ever work in that market. That is hard core, you know, it's very different, and it's important to understand each market and where you could go the potential of where your agency might want to send you. What are the benefits of going abroad? Are they sending you just to build your portfolio and you're not gonna be making any money? Or are you going in hopes of booking clients, making money and getting great publications? Teoh work with you? Um, if that is the case and your mother agency Okay, that means the one your exclusive to signs you up. A lot of them have agency across the board like I was with I m g. There's one in London. There's one here. There's one there, and they might even have different names for the agency's over seas. But there's a connection there. And what will happen is your mother agency will hook you up. Okay? Or you could ask, you know, I'm really interested in going Teoh. Um, you know, Europe. I want to go there. Can you help me? You know, it's my It's been slow here. Do you think I would do much better and Europe right now and they could say, Yeah, great. They're gonna hopefully set you up with an agency or you find one they might not even want to help. You might be too busy and think that, you know, it's not something they're gonna worry about. You need to find out how much percentage your mother agency will get from the job because they will always get paid. Even if they didn't book you the job, most likely you will have to pay them something. Okay, then you're gonna have to pay that agency abroad. Okay, so that's nothing. Need to understand taxes. When is a winner Jobs taxed when her jobs not taxed. I've worked on jobs where they're like you're gonna make 10 grand like Great. Then you've gotta pay grand back to the agency right away or they hold your chapter. Typically, it's 20%. Okay, they'll hold your check, and we're gonna talk about what happens with your first paycheck or even checks. After a lot of times, your first paycheck will go to paying back the agency everything. It costs them to set you up a za model. And I can't tell you how many girls don't understand that most don't. Yeah, and no one explained that to me when I came from America's next top model. I signed with I AMG models best agency, the world's top. But I was like, Oh my God, I can't believe it. I didn't understand how it worked. I didn't win the lottery. And when No, no money from the show, it was just the right toe work. I want a piece of paper guaranteeing me one year to be signed with this agency, which really isn't enough time to kind of build yourself. But thank God, you know, it worked out, and I'm still continuing that relationship with them, and I've got on with other agencies as well. And But what happens is it costs money for these agencies to set you up as a model. Okay, You have to start testing. Okay, That costs you money. Unless there's an agreement with the photographer and the agency and they have a trade. And you are the lucky one that got picked that that photographer does want to work with and is not charging or may only charge you for the hair and makeup. See, because that can happen, Teoh. Okay, You need to understand how much the tests costs. Some photographers charged 500 some charge 600. Some charge 1500. And that might not include hair and makeup that they bring on their own hair and makeup team. That's another $150. Or a styling team. If you're agencies adamant about having you styled a particular way, When I changed my hair lighter, they wanted me to look like this androgynous look. They wanted lots of leather and biker pants and all this stuff I was like, OK, so I had to pay for the stylist, you know, to bring all of the stuff. Um, that got build right away. Okay, then when you start having a portfolio that costs money to, you have to pay for the portfolio book and we're not talking about 50 bucks here. People were talking about $600 just to get your book organized. Okay, these fees are ridiculous, but this is what the's top agencies charge. And if you're not watching, you're gonna You're going to see once you get a statement after a few months, everything, all the costs you've incurred. If your if your book is getting messenger it out in the city to be seen by, let's say, Neutrogena on your agencies on like you know, 23rd Street, it's going to cost the messenger to come pick up your portfolio, pick up, take the portfolio to Neutrogena. Neutrogena will look at the portfolio, send the portfolio back, the messenger will pick up the portfolio, and that could happen 10 times a day. We don't know how many times this is New York. The messenger stuff is all New York, New York or, you know, in Milan they had is going those little like little scooters. And then, you know you have to pay the scooter guy just to take you to go see these clients. And meanwhile now, which is great access your portfolios, your now online. And sometimes when you're with these agencies, there's open access for photographers and clients to automatically be able to look at your book and not have to pay. But most likely I feel ipads things like that. I mean, it's better to have the physical pictures in front. It just looks so much better. And I'm an artist. I want to see in all this digital stop and kind of just be, you know, it kind of gets lost, and I agree. I like the tangibles. Well, I mean, the ipads great, but I like having a book and seeing a tangible book in my hand. I love that. Yeah, so you girls will get charged for that, Okay? And I think to set up my portfolio. And this was like 10 years ago or whatever. No. years ago, the show's been Frommer was like $600 just to organize my book. Then they were like, Okay, we set up three photographers for you to test with. I brought all my pictures from America's next top model and they were like and they threw him away because, you know, let's face it. The show is fun, it's glamorous. And not that the photographers don't have the talent because they do. They pick incredible photographers. But the agency didn't want to carry over the images because they wanted to make you want Who is you wanna Let's make you want to know How do we build you wanna? And there's a There's a whole team of people that are going to me when you signed with an agency, and they're going to say, Kara, I feel car would be great for thes clients on for this type of look, This is who she needs to start testing with. This is how we want her to look. This is the style of a composite card, and they're gonna get together and talk about hopefully if you have a legitimate, practical, great agency. Ah, plan for this girl because they need to make money off of you. Millions of pretty girls could just sign up. Are they going to make money off of you? That's primarily what their focus is. So they're going to set you up with the right tests photographers that are going to promote their vision of how they want you to look, So I'm gonna go to taking your first pictures and kind of like, what happened literally the week when I I landed in New York on, um, moved there and what the agency wanted me to be. I went in there and they said, You want him. You know, we like he was short hair. We like this androgynous look. And I was like, What does that mean? I later, at that time, I was, like, just happy to have my pictures taken. I didn't care what they did with me, and they set me up with some amazing photographers who are up and coming. They were basically, these photographers build the connections with the agencies to have access to the girls, and eventually they are shooting for Bogue. They're shooting for, you know, all of the hip artistic magazines. So it's almost a great opportunity for you as a model to get in with these photographers before they get so big where they're not accepting as many tests anymore. Um, so I'm gonna ask that we get to see the first pictures. Um, are there any questions? There certainly are questions. Maybe. Just ask what a composite card is did you say composite? Did we get into that? Yeah. We're gonna get into that. And, um, with the composite card, like, it's important to understand that that is coming like your business card. You're gonna take that with you on all of your castings, along with your portfolio. Please don't forget your portfolio. You need to ask agency to. If ipads are the way to go, some say yes. Some say no. It needs to be clear. You're composite card will have primarily a super strong image of yourself. Okay? It's gonna probably be a head shot, and it's going to for them. They just feels like the best representation of yourself. You might not like the way you look. I've gotten calm cards before. Like, Oh, you know, and it doesn't matter. You take it to the client on on the back, will have probably a like you could see this picture over here. A body shot where the client can see your legs and how big your chest is and your arms and how tall you are. Then on the bottom will be a readout of your height. Okay? Your weight, which I think Europe really focuses on that, like they might dio or London. They might dio like you know that are, but they'll focus on your measurements, which is super important. They'll put your dress size, your shoe size, your hair color and your eye color, and it's yet it's like your business card. In a sense, it'll have your agency information, and your casting director might ask, Who is your Booker? They might make a little note on. Then, after you're done, they will give feedback to the agency about how you came in, Um, and what they thought of your book and your composite card if the agency wants to know, especially if you're a new girl, because the agencies do want to know what casting directors air thinking, what these for to force air thinking they want to know. So yes, So another question from Fashion TV is we were advised that a good agency that will cover the expenses to give us a good book. Is that true? And do you mean that we really need to pay for the charges by those agencies who charge? And then again, are most tests a mutual collaboration between the photographer and the model agencies. Okay, we signed with Well, Matthew and I are really, I think on day two gonna break down tests, photography, cool expectations off the agency, expectations from the model from the photographers from the stylist, the makeup artist. Huge. Because you're gonna get into a lot of problems as a photographer where if you're doing a lot of trade work or a model, if you're doing a lot of trade work and you're not getting the images you need out of it, you're gonna get really upset and feel like you wasted a whole day and you can't use any of it because it's too over styled or it wasn't exactly what you were expecting that day to get out of it. Okay, Also, etiquette. When you test is a model wind, can you ask for your pictures? Super important was a photographer. If I'm doing a test with Matthew, Matthew reaches out to me or the agency saying that he wants to work with you, wanna and he's doing a beauty, something great. I'm not getting paid for it, But I would love let's say to work with him, and it's fine. He's reputable. I have the time. He's free. He's got a great team together. Let's do it. I can't be calling Matthew two weeks from Matthew. Where's my pictures? Matthew? I need my images. Matthew. Which one did you choose? Matthew. Um, do you think Matthew has time for that? No, it was an artistic project he doesn't want to hear. When you want your pictures, I keep my mouth shut. Pray to God they arrive in the next six months. I'm saying six months because sometimes it takes six months on. However, now with you, what with others and could on since it was a trade. You can't as a model ask for your images. Now, if you need them, maybe you should get your agency to ask Now if you're paying Matthew, if I come to him and the agency wants me to work with Matthew and I need a particular look, he needs to guarantee me as the pain client model that I'll get my images in two weeks that I'll be able to have a gallery in order to view them with my agency or my agency will have the gallery to view, and then they would go through and pick the best of the images. Now you're paying him now, so it's a different story. You're allowed to communicate and reach out, in a sense, giving him a sense of time because you're paid client now, so it's different. But this whole trade and expectation needs to be clear. If your photographer and you're doing a trade, let the model no hay. Not sure what I would have these done. I'll get him to you when I can, and the model should be fine with that. OK, it's not life or death here. If you don't get these images from these guys, you've got to give them the the sooner the better. Usually photographers point of view. If you're testing a lot, it makes more sense to citizen just off to the client or, in this case, the modeling agency right away so you can shoot next person into the same thing. So when you start shooting for jobs, did that anyway. So get into the habit as a photographer of shooting and sitting off right away is in your best interest. Definitely, because you want the images to be current, and in this industry, I'm not using pictures that I shot three years ago. People, I don't look the same. I'm not trying to act that way enough. It's an artistic portrait, but people really don't want to see that. They want to see recent stop within the last year, six months, stuff that's been published or if I decided to. I paid a photographer test because I wanted to look a certain way or use it for a promotional. Andi. For me, it's different in the sense that if I use the test, I'll eventually get an interview. Let's say for a project I'm doing and then I can use that image because sometimes photographers won't you need to understand how win and how can I use these tests, images and what for? Okay, and as a model, super, super important, these people cannot be selling your images. If it's a test and promoting something or using it for their Web site without letting you know, I mean, how bogus would that be? And we had a discussion with this. You're a model. You go and you do a test. Yeah, You got some decent images. He just sold it to wherever. For 5 600 bucks for hair care company that he's dying to work with. You don't know anything about it, and you could you could miss the opportunity of getting something out of that. OK, so let's go to first images. Thes. Mind you, these were a long time ago. This was something that I am G set me up with a photographer, literally right out the subway, rolled into the photographer's studio. You didn't even want me to do nothing. We didn't have a makeup artist. Nothing. It was just comb your hair through a bunch of liner on. He liked it that way. Is that was okay, Andi, That became an image that got in my book. This was when I really was my second day landing in New York. I was exhausted. Tired of all this top model promotional, this is a sample of what the photographers will send over to an agent. And then what's gonna happen is you're gonna walk over. They'll say, Oh, we got your pictures in and we're looking over. And, you know, Carrie and I were sitting next to each other. We're gonna go through. We've got the director of the agency and we'll get back, Teoh. And then they start making their markings of kind of like what they're they're liking. And you could be like, I don't like that. Whatever. They're the ones deciding. No, these were one that this photographer Eric took and he was up in coming, And then he started shooting for Russian Vogue and all that. Um, so, yeah, that's when I was really short hair fresh. No makeup, girls. Okay, We'll talk about this when you're testing. Don't come in there with wanting to look a certain way. It screws the whole the whole vision up right now I wash it all off anyway, Wash, start fresh. If you can't take a simple picture and look cool and whatever with no makeup, then you know, I just feel like what's the point? You should be able to work with what you've got. Okay? There's another one. Yeah, this guy, Chad Pittman. He's one of those photographers. Amazing shoots, huge campaigns. Amazing editorials. Now he was just starting out and had, like, the agency sent me to his apartment in the East Village. Um, he pulled out a box of flannel tee shirts and denim shorts and said OK, we're gonna go shoot you. And here I'm going like, OK, and who's doing my hair makeup? He's like, we're not doing that. I'm like So he's like, brush your brows and put on some lip balm and let's go And really, we just went on the roof of his building and we walked all around the East Village and he just started shooting and the agency loved it. There was no clear cookie hair style. There was no passion pink lipstick. There was no severely arched brow powder. So really, that they love that they loved that. And I was like, Really? Now when I light my hair for something and for this job, they sent me to a photographer because I was like getting bored with dark hair. And I'm one of those people I like to change. I can't be a girl. Look the same. Like I'm like that. I'm like into reading trends and cutting my hair bleaching and all that stuff, but within reason, I'm not going to be so radical where the agency doesn't want it. But I lightened my hair for for this job for this TV show, and they wanted me to go a little lighter. So this is what ended up being my, um my comp card for a long time. Andi, I thought it would just be a test. So you see how simple I really just have, like, a curled lash, maybe like a beige slip. And I learned to kind of still given emotion. It's important, cause even when you're testing, you still have to be expressive. Um, and and still, you know, as if you were doing a paid gig. Okay, so we'll leave that there. Um, back to the agency thing. Uh, what What would you say? Some girls get disappointed about when once they're legit and signed with an agency. What a common complaint. Well, there's a lot. There's a lot, I think one of the main things, even like with the composite cards. A lot of girls always coming to me and like, Oh, I hate my composite card because they had this vision of what they think it is to be a model. But the agency is looking for how to sell you best. And that picture is a great picture. It shows me everything I want to see about her, right away. I can also, when you leave from the casting your left of that I have that to remember you. Oh, yes, there was great. She was wonderful. And I make comments on that card myself. Like, keep this girl in mind for this job For for that job is a matter of fact. Also, when you go to a casting, you're going in for one specific job. But as photographer, I'm like, Oh, wow, she could be good for this other job I'm doing next week. So you never know where those jobs come from, So always be your best. But on that composite car getting back to that, that one is just so simple and clean. And I can I can mold what I want from seeing that, and it's important especially, you know, I recognize I'm not like I said 18 whatever, but I look young fresh. The more makeup you start putting, especially on girls that are getting, is like the older you look. I sometimes get booked on so many publication jobs where I'm like the era girl. We joke about that. I do the fifties. I do the sixties or seventies on the nineties that is great. But at the same time, a lot of times I can't even use the images. So makeup artists get so excited to put a lot of makeup on that get really into the whole theme of the shoot or they really want to show their skills. And it's great, cause that's what the magazine wants whenever. But at the end of the day, I don't really get Teoh. That image is not gonna sell me like something this clean would. Okay, that's why you gotta let go of what you think Sexy is what you think beautiful is and just try and be the most natural you could be. Um, okay, I want to break into. We were talking about the fees of the agency. Remember, the agency wants you to represent them. They're gonna want you to look amazing at all times. They're gonna try and set you up with stylists. They're going to try and send you to the Sheikha salons. They're going to try and take you to the most incredible facial ists. I said yes to all of them because I wanted to be with the in crowd. And you're like, Oh, Jesus, when you received this statement. Wow. Okay, $450 for a gloss for my hair. Oh, God. OK, $500 for a facial. Okay, um, car service that you think they're sending you because they want to make sure you're safe and happy, and everything is great. You're gonna get built for that. It's a Mercedes. Even better. Even more expensive. So you girls need to understand. Like, am I gonna be charged for this car service? And I'm gonna be charged for this stylist that this agency setting me up to work with and ah, lot of times I thought it was for free. I thought, Why not know you're gonna get nothing Build for that. Okay. And you need to ask. The client is booking you for a car service. They should tell you the clients taking care of your car service or whatever This not. But when you're overseas, it needs to be clear. What do I have to pay for is what if you go out there and you're doing free editorials or you're testing and you're not making any money Well, guess what? When you come back, you have to pay back that oversees agency, and that could be really fresh. It happens time and time again, okay? Or you feel like you want to leave that place and you want to come back home. You miss your family. You don't like any of the food there, or you feel that people are different. Guess what? You have to pay the eight. Your mother agency how much it cost them to send you out there. And then you might have even have to pay that agency, um, for hosting you while you were there. So be very smart about asking questions about that. Okay? And when I say your first paycheck is indebted to the agency, you can. For the 1st 2 years, most top models are indebted to the agency. We're talking about the girls that are making Forbes lists. OK, They started at 13. They moved to New York, 15 years old. Took them a certain amount of time to get where they are today. People think it happens overnight. It does not happen overnight to build these amazing careers. Girls could be lucky to do it in three years, but more likely, it takes 78 years. I had hair stylist, makeup artist roommates who've lived with top models that are like household names. And they were working, living with them when they were barely getting booked in and out of the city New York during seasons, and it took a while. And nobody knows struggles that they had to go through in order to get where they are today. So that's why a lot of these pills I'm offering you stuff because I've gone through things, too, as a model, they're not gonna want to share with you, because, in a sense, it's kind of breaking that mystique of I made it. But as an artist, we all know abs and the flows, the good and the bad when you're broke. You made an amazing paycheck when you've spent it all when you didn't plan, and it's important that you girls understand it is a business, and you need to have good money management skills from the beginning. Beginning. Yeah, and if you're getting a check for 30 grand and you don't think you can handle that and you're not sure if you're booked on anything secure meaning firm because you could be on hold for a job and that's a term we use agencies. Your on hold for this gig doesn't mean you got it just means you're on hold, okay? And you're not confirmed. And you may or may not hear back from that client and get a confirmation, or you may get confirmed. So you need to manage your money. We'll go those terms later on about on holding it Affirmed as well. Yeah. Ladies, please feel free to jump in and ask questions. You are representing the Internet as well. So if you have questions, there's people out. Don't be shot. Probably have the same question. So just jump in whenever you guys want to as well. Can we go ahead and ask a couple questions? Okay. Sri Crosby asked. Are we allowed to say no to being charged having car service or stylings or things like that? I give you that option. Absolutely. There certain things. There's a reason the agency might want you to show up and a nice car, and you should say yes. I mean, they're not gonna they understand your situation to I don't think that they're all going to try and take advantage of you and exploit you If you're ah good earning model and you want to go to the red carpet event, you should be showing up in a nice car. You should be representing yourself like a top earner or whatever, because if you can afford it, then do it. If you can find ways to do it yourself cheaper, do it. And that's the great thing about coming together on teams and sets. I've met so many her makeup artists I've become friends with. There's no way I want to pay their 515 $100 rate. I will say, Hey, I'll cook you dinner, Come over. I'll slip you 150 box and like really? Okay, So you know you can find your ways and everyone knows that in this field for artists. So as long as you're being fair and you know communicating, yeah, okay, so I want to talk about scams and kind of touched about like model May ham and all of these sites. And how do you really get discovered? Best thing to dio Simple Polaroids. Send them out to 10 agencies. Fashion commercial related show up to the open calls that they have. The agency's come dressed, looking like you want to really belong. Far greater chance of getting discovered. Versace conventions. And I'm going to talk to you about stuff that's going on. Okay, It's sad to think that your parents are spending a ton of money on modeling schools. Okay, They're great to build your confidence. They're great toe. Learn how to put on makeup, maybe to make a great friends or maybe kind of become more secure with yourself. I don't know any top model that ever came from school and actually made it. Okay, Um, it's not necessary. It could be fun. Take it for what? It ISS doesn't mean they come. I promise you that They are. And this has happened. They might promise you we're gonna send you out to New York or we know someone in New York. Let them be really honest. Asked them when and how. And do I really need to keep paying in order for you to send me to New York or meat So and so reputable Agencies are never aggressive in scouting new faces. Okay, They've got way too much stuff going on. They're not leaving their desk during Fashion week running around the city or small towns looking for girls. They might do that, and I know that they do. And they have certain times where they go out scouting, and that's great, Okay, but they're not aggressively doing it. There's no scheduled for them set to do it. Sometimes it's on a whim, or they kind of get like, a notice of what some great places to check out for possibility of, you know, finding girls and scouting new faces. Scams. Conventions are looking to profit with sign up fees, registrations. Okay, they'll announce it on the radio and say, Hey, come on down to this hotel. We're gonna be having these bookers. And so nine out of 10 times none of those Booker's air really there. It's just people that are part of their company that are looking Teoh profit off of the girls of their hopes and their dreams of their parents pocketbooks. They might sell them a glamour package of some sort, and they might have an in house photographer looking to photograph you. And you're thinking that this is what it takes to make it. Probably not. Um, most modeling agencies never have radio announcements. They don't set up at convention centers. They don't solicit young girls to sign. There is never an introduction package or an upfront fee once you signed to reputable agency. And there's a big difference when you sign, they have to set you up. That's fine. But you're not paying right there on the spot to be a part of the agency. Okay, That's not normal. You can ask you a question. Yes. So, girls in Iowa or Nebraska who may be the next it girl, how did she get discovered? Yeah, I think that, you know, you've got to send, have someone take your picture. Simple, clean. Send it. Like I said to 10 agencies, commercial agencies, fashion agencies in Chicago and Los Angeles in New York, In my mammy in Paris, the major fashion cities even locally, if you're not really ready and you're in high school or your parents aren't really thrilled about you venturing out there, you can go to those markets during seasons or during summer breaks or whatever holiday breaks, um, far more greater chance of getting discovered that way or showing up to their open calls. Most top agencies have a 45 minute window once a week for you to show up. Okay? I'm present yourself, and they make it known through their website. Um, there's I think models dot com has a list of the top 50 agencies in the world. Find out what you would address it. New faces. Um, whoever attention new faces. Send in your measurements. Send in a sample of the Polaroids we were talking about with your height, Your profile, your 3/ you know, frame on. Do it that way. Okay. Far greater chance Scatters. Also, don't push girls to promote alcohol, it venues or events. If you want to do that. Great. I know girls who are reputable and still working in agencies need the extra cash, and they do that. But don't let these people try and sell you a chance of being a model because, you know, if you're out there club endorsing it can be flipside. Because there was a special in Dateline where this girl moved to New York. She got one paid modeling, getting in New York, and she thought that was it. And she was looking to get signed with an agent. She ends up broke, frustrated, and she starts going to clubs and meeting clip motors and they start paying her to come out to these clubs already crossing the line of looking like an escort even though in your heart, you don't want Teoh. But if a modeling agency finds out you're wrapped up in all that stuff, they don't want to get involved in any of that, OK? No top earning girl goes around those places looking to be promoted that way. You see all those girls on instagram sticking out there but holding glasses of champagne And but nine out of 10 times, no agency is going to take that seriously and want to work with those girls. Okay, um, there are looks of the year, and I would look out for that. There are great opportunities. I know a lot of magazines like 17 elite Look of the year. Still definitely legit Ford models Does things like that? There's no feet to join somewhat of a pageant. I definitely recommend that would be a legitimate way of possibly getting scouted. Um, okay, here we go. Region submissions asking your agent about going abroad and we talked to the agent later on. We're gonna talk about how to present yourself in various markets. OK, because my Miami portfolio Florida portfolio is light years difference from my Mexican portfolio versus what I do in New York and l a very commercial. I know. I was out in l A and I came with all these pictures. This was like four months ago. All these fresh pictures from all these magazines that I just shot Miami. Everything was No, no, no, I didn't market No. Maybe. But without the tree, No, no, it's about the bomb dream. So it's important to understand the market that your, um and let's see, what else? Matthew, I wanted you to talk about your experience traveling and working with models. And what are the expectations when you're abroad? What a what a client's expecting from American girls or girls coming from the States, traveling on jobs is very different. The call times very early. So if you're to be a pit at five in the morning to do your hair, make for four in the morning to you, you're shooting in the Caribbean. You can't be out partying late at night drinking because it shows the next day you got take care of yourself. So on trips, especially a lot things happen. So you must be professional as much as possible. Yes. You have a great time, you know, Go swimming. Whatever. But don't get a tan and burn. If you're starting a trip or if you're doing lingerie, you can't be out there. You know Tanney. So just be professional. Yeah. How many girls get caught up in that tanning now? Mines washable if they don't like, I washed up and I screwed myself. It's fine, But when you start doing stuff where you're out there and it's unchangeable and you're about to shoot that day, um, ruins were calling the agency. Oh, my God. He's another girl down here. We can't shoot her. Yeah, they're gonna do that. And that's why it's important to take care of yourself too. If you put on 15 £20 used to let your agency now and tell him you need a break. So you know what? I'm just not really up for it. I need a month off. I'm just going to go travel. I want to go on a food trippers. You know, I just had a baby or I need a time they're going to be okay with that. They're not going to know. I mean, we're human beings were women. It's They're really high, ridiculous expectations. And don't listen to what other people are saying. Oh, she's letting herself go. No, you needed a break. Just be human, you know, take a break on. A lot of girls come and go. They disappear, they take breaks. They might have a break up with the boyfriend. Or they might have gotten a divorce. Or they might have had a baby, whatever it issue. No, they understand that you have a life to in that you might need a break before you have a breakdown. So, Okay, now the agency's gonna expect you. Um I'm gonna tell you how they want you to come in all the time. Okay? They were gonna want you to show up, and this is even you just popping in to say hi because a lot of time still say we haven't seen you in, like, three months. You're in town. Come in. We want to see you. Oh, you're thinking it's a love best. They missed you business. OK, they want to see what can we Who are we gonna present her to? Okay. How does she look in right now? Is she fit? Is she toned skin? Yeah. She need to be working out a little bit. All of that. So definitely you want to be as fit as possible when you're coming to an agency. Because they to are the ones trying to get make money and book your jobs. You need to look your best for them. It's important to impress your bookers. Okay, bookers have short attention spans. I mean, that seriously, you could, like, sit there and talk about your puppy dog and how you know he got sick over the holiday stuff. Okay, that might be great for, like, two minutes, but they're like, OK, what are we gonna pitch her for? Okay, um, your skin needs to be radiant. And, Dewey, when you go in, um, no makeup, and if so, it should really just be covering up. Maybe a spot or something like that. Your brows have got to be groomed, not waxed, not crooked. They have to be full. The fuller the better. Because then if they need to take some off, it's much easier to correct that versus crooked browse. And that might happen. I was working a lot and everyone was touching my brows. And then the agency would get so mad, Like, what's going on with you? And you get this lecture and you're like, But it wasn't me. Okay. No nail polish, girls. No art design on your nails. No acrylic nails. Okay. If they are acrylic, they have to be super, super, super, super short. They have to look natural, and they have to look manicured. They will look at your nails, OK? They're gonna look at your piercings. They don't want you to come in with loads of accessories, okay? No big hoops. I love my hoop second wearing today some with young, but I wouldn't go. I'm going with my big satellite hoops, you know, trying to catch the digital radio with, um, you know, but no, um, baggy clothes. They want to see if you've been away for a while. What your body looks like. They're probably gonna take fluids of you in a piece of launch array. Okay. Or swimsuit. So be ready. Be waxed. Okay. There's one of the funniest things tire ever told me After winning America's next top model. She's like, just remember to always be groomed, and I was like, OK, what does that mean? And she literally lifted up her skirt and showed me her on her, what she met and that met bikini wax like the wax be ready at all times. Of course, she was doing Victoria's Secret like Aton then and all that. But be waxed, Um, and about your way. I get this all the time and it's a sensitive subject. I think of your proportion. You could be thin and lean, depending on the markets that you're trying to work and they're they're different. Okay, Milan's very extreme. Sometimes Europe can be a little more extreme. New York Fashion Week extreme. You've got to be super fit, and then on a lot of the girls naturally could do it, and it's totally easy for them. Some can't, and they need to decide if that's what they want to continue doing. It's about enjoying what you do for a living to making sure you enjoy it. Um, height. We were saying hi for commercial agencies. It's not a requirement to be super tall like What do you find in L. A. That a lot of girls definitely shorter in L. A definitely short in L. A. But you go back to New York and they're all 59 in a boat. Miami to I mean, I showed up to a shoot. I'm super tall and the guy said, Wow, you're really legit. You're tall. He didn't know what to do with me. The clothes clothes were too short. Stylist had pulled and I should have communicated that with them that I needed a longer stride Or that I am very tall, you know, I'm not can I interrupt? What? Can you give specific heights when you say shorter in l. A Are you talking? Starts at 57 What? What are that? I would say here, like 57585955 You really? If you could be really cute and get booked for I have I know one girl. She's like 5455 She's constantly doing cute. Now they don't really You wouldn't really know how tall she is, because she's like running and laughing and, you know, she could be a Disney World or whatever shooting there Yeah, and it's not They don't need her to be a giraffe, OK, It doesn't matter. What about New York? What is the shortest that you could be in New York? New York, High fashion tall. I'm talking tall. You're gonna see girls. I might stand next to someone the same height. They might look taller to me, taller than me because of their length of their legs or whatever. But height cells there. Okay. Being backstage at the fashion show last season. And all the girls my height. Oh, and that's without heels. I'm Yes, some of them. They're in heels, of course. Put it all summer, even without heels in their 6162 Another thing. If you are that tall, don't put that on your comp card. That's another thing. Okay. How weird is that, right? I go in there. I'm 5 11 3 force. They're like, Oh, no, we can't put that on there. Your 5 Well, I want to be telling. No, that's intimidating now for the casting art directors. Is this a joke? Because all photographers, no. After casting, you have 100 cards. They all say the same height And you've seen girls who are here, here, here. But it's all says, like 59595 9.5. Wait a minute by minute. She's not 59 She's got five night. Yeah. Yeah. Okay, so we're going to get to the makeup tonight. I mean, sorry. Today, toward the end this afternoon, we're gonna do a little mock runway. I'm gonna show you how to walk the runway versus what you think you know on and were kind of going to teach you how to wear your makeup. That's super important when you're going into a casting into the agency they really like for you to show your eyelashes. Okay. No liner, no shadows, no powders, no pencils, no contouring, no bronzers, no illuminate. Er's no waxes like some people put like, clear wax to brush up their brows. It's gotta be You have to look perfectly natural if you can. Okay. If you do have a gap in your brow, fill it with a tiny bit of powder, not a pencil. If you do have a little spot, a tiny bit of concealer blended in so you can still see your skin. They don't want to see where you put the concealer. OK, that'll show up on a Polaroid on mascara. One or two coats. Okay. I love the Webby. Look, that's fun. For every day I might make up artist, friend, May mascara Web where it looks like, you know, messy. I love that. Look up in Tom, that doesn't work for the agency. It's gotta be I like, I like that indie like mascara Webby Look, with no makeup and lots of mascara. But no, you need to go in with two coats of mascara. None of it can fall under the eye or above the eye if you do clean it with the Q tip, and that's it. Okay. A lip balm, your natural lip color. No new colors. Okay. No beige colors. That's okay, cause that was, you know, for the comp card, but it needs to look like your natural lips.