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Adobe Photoshop 2020: The Complete Guide Bootcamp

Lesson 78 of 118

Scale and Warp Smart Objects

 

Adobe Photoshop 2020: The Complete Guide Bootcamp

Lesson 78 of 118

Scale and Warp Smart Objects

 

Lesson Info

Scale and Warp Smart Objects

Let's take an image here of a mug. What I would like to do here is take a photograph and actors with it's been printed onto the mug. So let's go find a photo to use, and this happens to be a raw file. Now, with the raw file, I could just choose open image. It would open in Photoshop, and then I can convert it into a smart object. But there is a different thing I could do, which is look at the button at the bottom right of my screen that's called open image and watch what happens to it. If I hold down the shift key, you notice it changes to open object. That means open. This is a smart object. When I don't have shift tell down, it just says open image. So if I hold down shift and I click where it says open object now I'm opening. That image is a smart object from the beginning, and in the case of a raw file that's special. Because now when I double click on the thumbnail image for that smart object, instead of just opening another document that contains a picture, it's gonna open camera...

because that's what we started with was a raw file. And whenever you open a raw file, it shows Kamerad so you can adjust it. And therefore, I could make changes to this image when it comes to the brightness in the colors later on. I don't think we're gonna utilize that in this particular example, but we will in a future one. Now, I'm gonna use the move tool. I'm gonna click within this document. I'm gonna drag to the other document and make sure my mouse is contained within the document before I let go. Now, I would like to take this in, acted as if it's been wrapped around the monk to do so. I'm first going to scale this down, so I'm gonna type command T that's control team windows. And that's the same as going to the edit menu and choosing free transform. I'm gonna make this just a little bit smaller so I can easily see the mug that's behind it. And then I'll return to the edit menu, choose transform, and I'm gonna work. This warping is gonna allow me to bend it now, this time, instead of choosing a preset warp like what I did before from this menu. I'll leave it set to custom. And what I'll do is grab the four corners of the image one at a time in place them where I think it would be if this in which was actually printed on the mug. I think this corner would be somewhere up this way. This one would be contained within the mug itself and maybe a down about there. Ah, this one's in a relatively good position to begin with. Then I'll grab this corner, drag it up, and I think it would be about there. After doing that, I'm gonna click on the line that makes up the edge of the photograph, maybe right about in the middle and see if it will allow me to move this around. It looks like it didn't like it when I was right in the line. So just to me, that would be the tiniest bit below. And then here I'll be just the tiniest bit above, and I'll drag down trying to get the angle toe look good. I confined to where these corners are if need be, and these little handles that come off for the corners. They determine what angle the edge of the photograph will be out right when it leaves the corner. So if you point it straight down, the photo will go straight down immediately when it leaves that little corner point. If I were to move it, this way would start going over towards the right. Well, I'm just going to tell that to mimic Lee edge of the mug, and I could do the same thing with the other one. I can also click in the left edge, pull it in and out if needed to bend it and near the right edge as well, if I needed to find Tune it. But I'm just trying to get this toe look like a reasonable idea of it being bent in here. You can also click in the middle and drag up and down if you need to reposition ah, portion of the it Maybe about like that, Then I'll press returner enter, and that doesn't really look like it's printed on the mug, though, because they're the shading of the mug is not showing up. So I'm going. Then go to my layers panel and I'll change the blending mode for this layer. We have a whole separate lesson on blending modes. Is part of Photoshopped a complete guide. In there you would learn that multiply mode acts like ink, and if so, it's gonna be like printing this on the mug. And at any time, I can always go back to edit, choose, transform and choose warp again, and it's going to act like I never left there and I could find Tune this as much as I want. Even after saving the image closing the image, it can still be fine tuned. All you gotta do is reopen it, so I'll get that to be set up. Press returner. Enter and let's just say that's good enough. But now I think the image looks a little on the dark side. I wish I had brighten it up, and it be best if I could brighten it up before I even opened it like it's a raw file. Right when I was in camera raw Well, we can remember when we opened it, we double clicked on it. It was a raw file. It brought us into camera in right there. We had a button where we could open it as a smart object. So if I double click of the thumbnail for this layer, watch what happens. It brings me into camera raw. Now it doesn't show it to me on the mug, but I can come in here now and bring up the shadows. Slaughter. Maybe bring up the overall exposure a little bit and then I can click. OK, and it updates. I think that's nice. All right, But then let's say that I took the original picture. I closed it. Not going to say the changes, and maybe for some odd reason, I lost that file. I took this file, and in my case, I see if I could drag it to the trash. It's gone. Imagine I emptied my trash in for some reason that file I just lost track of. Well, at any time you can take the contents of a smart object in, have it literally generate a separate file of whatever's inside. In this case, what's inside this layer is a raw file. So if I go to the layer menu and I choose smart objects, you're gonna find a choice called export contents. And that means do the equipment to double clicking on the thumbnail for that layer in whatever opens up, go to the file menu and choose save hours and make it a separate file. But in the case of ah, raw file, it's just going to spit out a brand new raw file. I choose export contents tell put it on my desk top end up here. You can see it's gonna be a raw file. So now if I look at my desktop, there's an extra file right there that I just generated, and it was taking it right out of the smart object and actually quite frequently used that, because I'll create some sort of project that is complex in that might have something like this, and I might double click on this layer to change its name. And if I do, then it's going to be difficult for me to remember the name of that file so that I might not know where it iss. But it's just so easy to say, export contents in it will generate a new file. But the other thing, Aiken Dio, is if I have another file that happens to be the same size, then let's see if this will work. I'm not sure if I have one of the same size, but if I go to the layer menu and I choose smart objects, there's also a choice called Replace Contents. And if I choose replace contents. I can come in here and try to find an image that would be a good replacement. No, not that one. Take me just a moment to see if I have one needs to be approximately the same dimensions. Otherwise, it's not gonna line up. Let's try that one. I'm gonna hit place. It's a raw file. So brings up camera Robert. All I have to do is click OK and now notice that it brought it in and it remembered the warping. It will remember any settings that replied to it, but I can tell you that the file was slightly larger. That's because it's taking up more space here. They need to be the same pixel dimensions, the same number of pixels in the with in height in order to do that. But that means I can set up a template that does something complex masking this picture, bending it, doing all sorts of things and later on decided like use a different picture as long as that pictures of the same dimensions

Class Description

All individual classes that make up this bootcamp are also available here for individual purchase.

AFTER THIS CLASS YOU’LL BE ABLE TO:

  • Develop an understanding of how Photoshop works
  • Create your ideal workspace
  • Configure the essential preference settings
  • Set up Adobe Bridge and Lightroom for optimal integration with Photoshop
  • Navigate multiple images seamlessly

ABOUT BEN’S CLASS:

Adobe® Photoshop® 2020 is a feature-rich creative force, perfect for turning raw ideas into audience-wowing images. With Ben Willmore as your guide, you can master it faster than you think and take on a new decade of projects.

Ben takes you step-by-step through Adobe Photoshop 2020 as only he can. With an easy pace and zero technobabble, he demystifies this powerful program and makes you feel confident enough to create anything. This class is part of a fully-updated bundle – complete with 2020 features and more efficient ways to maximize the tools everyone uses most.

Whether you’re a 20-year designer or you’re opening the app for the first time, this is the perfect way to learn and love using Photoshop. From retouching to masking to troubleshooting, Ben unpacks all the essentials and hidden gems, while giving you real-world examples to drive each lesson home. By the end of the class, you’ll feel eager to make serious magic with Photoshop 2020.

WHO THIS CLASS IS FOR:

  • Beginner, intermediate, and advanced users of Adobe Photoshop.
  • Those who want to gain confidence in Adobe Photoshop and learn new features to help edit photos.
  • Students who’d like to take ordinary images and make them look extraordinary with some image editing or Photoshop fixes.

SOFTWARE USED:

Adobe Photoshop 2020 (V21)

Lessons

  1. Introduction To Adobe Photoshop 2020
  2. Bridge vs. Lightroom
  3. Tour of Photoshop Interface
  4. Overview of Bridge Workspace
  5. Overview of Lightroom Workspace
  6. Lightroom Preferences - Saving Documents
  7. How To Use Camera Raw in Adobe Photoshop 2020
  8. Overview of Basic Adjustment Sliders
  9. Developing Raw Images
  10. Editing with the Effects and HLS Tabs
  11. How to Save Images
  12. Using the Transform Tool
  13. Making Selections in Adobe Photoshop 2020
  14. Selection Tools
  15. Combining Selection Tools
  16. Using Automated Selection Tools
  17. Quick Mask Mode
  18. Select Menu Essentials
  19. Using Layers in Adobe Photoshop 2020
  20. Align Active Layers
  21. Creating a New Layer
  22. Creating a Clipping Mask
  23. Using Effects on Layers
  24. Using Adjustment Layers
  25. Using the Shape Tool
  26. Create a Layer Mask Using the Selection Tool
  27. Masking Multiple Images Together
  28. Using Layer Masks to Remove People
  29. Using Layer Masks to Replace Sky
  30. Adding Texture to Images
  31. Layering to Create Realistic Depth
  32. Adjustment Layers in Adobe Photoshop 2020
  33. Optimizing Grayscale with Levels
  34. Adjusting Levels with a Histogram
  35. Understanding Curves
  36. Editing an Image Using Curves
  37. Editing with Shadows/Highlights Adjustment
  38. Dodge and Burn Using Quick Mask Mode
  39. Editing with Blending Modes
  40. Color Theory
  41. Curves for Color
  42. Hue and Saturation Adjustments
  43. Isolating Colors Using Hue/Saturation Adjustment
  44. Match Colors Using Numbers
  45. Adjusting Skin Tones
  46. Retouching Essentials In Adobe Camera Raw
  47. Retouching with the Spot Healing Brush
  48. Retouching with the Clone Stamp
  49. Retouching with the Healing Brush
  50. Retouching Using Multiple Retouching Tools
  51. Extending an Edge with Content Aware
  52. Clone Between Documents
  53. Crop Tool
  54. Frame Tool
  55. Eye Dropper and Color Sampler Tools
  56. Paint Brush Tools
  57. History Brush Tool
  58. Eraser and Gradient Tools
  59. Brush Flow and Opacity Settings
  60. Blur and Shape Tools
  61. Dissolve Mode
  62. Multiply Mode
  63. Screen Mode
  64. Hard Light Mode
  65. Hue, Saturation, and Color Modes
  66. Smart Filters
  67. High Pass Filter
  68. Blur Filter
  69. Filter Gallery
  70. Adaptive Wide Angle Filter
  71. Combing Filters and Features
  72. Select and Mask
  73. Manually Select and Mask
  74. Creating a Clean Background
  75. Changing the Background
  76. Smart Object Overview
  77. Nested Smart Objects
  78. Scale and Warp Smart Objects
  79. Replace Contents
  80. Raw Smart Objects
  81. Multiple Instances of a Smart Object
  82. Creating a Mockup Using Smart Objects
  83. Panoramas
  84. HDR
  85. Focus Stacking
  86. Time-lapse
  87. Light Painting Composite
  88. Remove Moire Patterns
  89. Remove Similar Objects At Once
  90. Remove Objects Across an Entire Image
  91. Replace a Repeating Pattern
  92. Clone from Multiple Areas Using the Clone Source Panel
  93. Remove an Object with a Complex Background
  94. Frequency Separation to Remove Staining and Blemishes
  95. Warping
  96. Liquify
  97. Puppet Warp
  98. Displacement Map
  99. Polar Coordinates
  100. Organize Your Layers
  101. Layer Styles: Bevel and Emboss
  102. Layer Style: Knockout Deep
  103. Blending Options: Blend if
  104. Blending Options: Colorize Black and White Image
  105. Layer Comps
  106. Black-Only Shadows
  107. Create a Content Aware Fill Action
  108. Create a Desaturate Edges Action
  109. Create an Antique Color Action
  110. Create a Contour Map Action
  111. Faux Sunset Action
  112. Photo Credit Action
  113. Create Sharable Actions
  114. Common Troubleshooting Issues Part 1
  115. Common Troubleshooting Issues Part 2
  116. Image Compatibility with Lightroom
  117. Scratch Disk Is Full
  118. Preview Thumbnail

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