Live Makeup Session: Continuing Second Model
So I've just finished erica's maker taken it to the same sort of natural level that the girl's having the back, um, close from erica, filled in her eyebrows on her lip. There she does have a bit of shimmer and it's just a beautiful soft gold color and a warm, warm brown to contour the socket right through that c shape in the corner at a corner of the eye of used of gone straight. Teo gel liner. Um, only because I wanted that liner to really stand out and I find that just a quicker way to do it. She's got ms gone hasn't got any less is onion, and I'm just about to do a little bit underneath her. I also using that same warm brown. Um, I should go look up for me. So what I do when I go underneath is I look at where the lowest part of the ice, which was about there, and then from there I go up to the outer corner and blend down a little bit, stretch that down, and I'll also go right to the inner corner, but keeping it right close to the lashes again, this is the lowest part of erica's I I ...
put my little mark there, and then I take it out and then right type to the bottom in a less is again, simone. I feel so I when I'm getting my makeup done, which isn't that often, but I blink all the time, especially in this part. Is there anything that is that, okay, I always feel really sad, yet lots of people do it that's, fine. You just let them blink it out, and people that really have a problem, I just trying, tio everything with the eyes closed, duma, scar, and maybe do minimal on the bottom if they really can't handle it and, you know that's quite common for me. I've just got a little bit of creasing, and I want to dust away some fallout. So with a little bit of fair loose powder on my brush I'm just moving that along case that we need to the scar on the bottom there and then we'll do some lips and erica stunning them we'll have a look at all the girls they start looking up for me and she's not a blinker I think I'd like to put some, uh call inside erica's waterline as well just to make eyes a little bit stronger so just dumb relaxing eyes for a sec so that water for me just look down for me I just want to stretch that line after little cut it a little bit too short stay looking down can look up for me to do the water line I just push with my finger there I don't actually drag the idea and then run my pencil along the water line same on the other side straight ahead I'm just gonna go right into the outer corner he one of my nice and dark sorry. Okay that's erica's might come down a little bit of gloss question from shira gray simona isn't how do you feel about applying eyeliner and our moscow it mascara to the lower lid for mature clients I heard that this makes a shadow there that emphasizes lines and makes them more noticeable it really depends on the shape of the persons I okay um I like to keep the line up right in the lash line of very close. Um, you know, if they in any way really puffy. Um, well, they've got a big bag under there. Either. I keep all the make up to the top just to bring emphasis to the top. And I only did my scar on the bottom. Ok, um, but quite often, you can do really soft. Beautiful, smudged out line underneath the lashes. Thank you. Okay. Oh, no, bright. Just lock that away for me. Thank you. That happens. He put something on and go. Oh, no, it doesn't look good, so we'll try an era. All right, billy's. A creamy lipstick. Any questions on erica's, michael? Question from shiloh is wondering do use liner on the water line. I just did. Yes, you did. Um, top and bottom. If you get someone that's a non blinker like erica, you can actually do the underneath of the top line. A swell, but usually just on the bottom for people that don't know their water line or the wit line is there alone on the inside of your eye here, that obviously it's. Quite moist. So it doesn't hold. I line it very well and see mina. Has a technique that she can actually lift up the lid in the eyelashes like this and actually do the top war on witte line, which is under the lashes and it's actually quite hard to do. If you have sensitive eyes, you'll never be able to do it. But it's actually really beautiful when you do a full smoky I will try and do one on tiffany soon it works really well on. The irony, too, is out of my rules. One of the first rules that I have for makeup adis is I want that in a wit line to be really defined because unnatural life photography when the eyes are forward, when the tennis, ford and down was there a bit on how quickly I was gonna be saying that when the tennis ford and down and the eyes of predicting up really connected to the camera and they looked really beautiful, this inside and upper black line isn't the most important line. And no matter how small your island is, everybody has that definition and that black line. So there is actually the most important line, although way talk about all of these techniques and photoshopped you create so many of them, but the most easy think to correct and finish shoppers to actually burn in at twenty percent. Because to boone in that island line and fill those lashes now itjust works really easy nice small brush about the size of an eyeliner and it's just like doing makeup on photo shop and you just burn it in when you look at my images have a look at that inside line on all of my images and you'll find it's very strongly defined and people always say, what is it about the eyes and your images? Will that black line it would be one hundred percent the first thing I asked for from all make a paris really, really important and if not to find it and finish up guys makes your portrait's look beautiful and it is on the lash line so even on young girls that are not wearing much makeup, it's still defines the eyes so beautifully and looks quite natural behind that question in the audience. So I find that there's that separation between where you apply the eyeliner eyeliner under uh yeah under the eye and between the eyeball there's that part of the skin I think that's what you are talking about just now the wet line, right? So on the majority of pictures I see that there is a separation so that's where you would burn it in I would make about this will not get a separation I could make a palace for actually work their line right on the lash line so it's not actually up on the wet line and then understood that there's a gap in the lashes and they'll they may eyeliner the width line and then underneath but then filling with powder along the lash line so that it's filled in. But if there is a gap, I burned it in and it happens a lot not teo the girls that are really, really good. But you know, when people also sometimes people put false eyelashes on and there's a space between false eyelashes in the top line that's a huge no no so I just burn it in twenty to thirty percent on fetish up. Nice small, brash feathered age and it just looks magnificent. A little the secret that I also uses its at fifty percent, I can flick the bay until tool up and create alicia's. If there's a gap in eyelashes as well, you get really good at it. It it's a naughty little quick you know, little quickie. I just add a few eyelashes make them longer, but there's now a plug in for further shop that has false eyelashes on photoshopped you just drop a layer onto your image you use the brush tool, you choose a dark brown black, you put your brush tool at about nine I've sent in. You choose a shape of eyelashes, and you could just touch them on. And they look really laces are so important. Uh, always talk about them. Talked about them last time. Uh, if I could have one sort of a little make up tip, it would really be that top black line in half. I letters. I think everybody looks really pretty with extended lesh line through the outside of their eye makes the ice look larger. It is the one thing no matter what I've seen in twenty years, it's, the one thing that my client's put on that makes my clients look in the mirror and go oh, my god love them, you know, because it's less extensions a really big right now, but they do really ruin your natural natural eyelashes are so easy to put on half less is everybody flips out over them there. They're just one significant thing that I always find in the makeup rooms people always raving about the election system don't simona, what did you did you make any adjustments to her lashes? You cut any part of it off? Just no, I used this three quarter less three quarter, but I moved it just a little bit into where her natural I starts just so it's got a more of a lifting effect just stay close to dr banquets is wondering if you ever use white liner to open up the eyes yes I do and I or a flesh colored liner will wake up that morning together like they do in the way a couple more eyeliner question yes um do you ever from guitar goddess is waterproof liquid line are better for the waterline pencil would you ever use that? Um I do sometimes use the gel liner which is much more waterproof than a pencil and I work it depending on the person's eye what they can handle are working with the brush so right on the lash line but from top so angle my brush um you know, not from underneath but right from top and push it in you can use it as long as you're okay with that right? It'll just swap yeah season that I think about the miracle of questions for you too so we look at the keynote and we look at what we call our natural eye there's two types of people that have a really natural I one of them is the younger girls that that shouldn't be wearing too much make up so you can keep that natural littered the first contour and maybe add meshes that's not a problem to add a half less to a natural eye because it makes it look really gorgeous this makeup here is what we deem is a natural makeup with eyelashes, so she hears a defined black eye line on the top of her eye and just a very basic life contour on her eye just to shape it. So that is the first level of makeup. I always do that on the younger girls, unless the younger girls were a lot of makeup and they want to look really gorgeous and, well, they want to look quite glamorous, so everything from here on in really involves a little bit of flash in little last. So it is a base makeup that is one of the most beautiful makeups in so fast and so easy to dio everything from here on in just involves darkening the eye. So we've actually set the base for a perfect makeup, and now we can go up and levels. So we look at our client and we ask your client how much makeup do they were? Because I, when my early days used to do the same sort of very heavy, glamorous makeup on some clients that really would just look in the mirror and say, I look horrible, I look like a drag queen. It wasn't who they are as a person, you know, so you really have to look at them. And if they say they never wear make up, this is where the comfortable I think is you start to go up and you've got their lips, and then you start to go up through the range. This one look, is really just based on how dark we can go. So we work on shaping and contouring that eye and that contour just gets darker and darker, so I think it would be really neat. Now. How far would you take susan? Um, to probably the middle way can come back. Okay, so aboutthe I do show all of my clients a makeup guide from natural to glamour, and I let them pick how dark they would like their makeup. It's significantly changed the reaction. Teo gilles being made up in the studio because I no longer head that I don't like my makeup. Uh, basically, I photographed a natural makeup half a face, and then I made a chat that goes up to a full smoky eye. A lot of clients would come in and say, I want my I done smoky. So you do a full black, smoky eye and they would get the fright of their life because it's not what actually what they wanted. And so when I show the chart off the makeup child that made, you know, a really big difference, really, really big difference to hell, they reacted when they make it was finished. Camera teenagers. Are you ever concerned about making them overly look overly mature, worried that mom might come in and be like that's. Too much makeup on her. Young girls know how much make up there now, to where they know how much is appropriate to wear any mounts, usually around. And I asked the monks as well, so that I always find these two types of clients is the man that doesn't want her daughter to be wearing makeup. And then there's the mom that says she can wear as much as she lines and it's, usually based on how much makeup the mum weighs. No uta man wears make up their daughters. Women. I got my space. You can sound that out pretty quickly. Will they remember everybody comes into your studio with no makeup on, no product in the hair, so you really have no idea how they look every day, okay? So just darken the outer corners of susan's eyes just to give her a little bit more lift and create a stronger contour. And I'm not really wiping it across this way in a sort of semi circle. Um, I'm just lifting this part of her eye, and I'm gonna go ahead and dark and just the unicorn is a little bit more good. Makeup had us. We'll make you almost fall asleep when you having. So I think it feels so nice. The way people touch you is very, very important, especially when they're in your personal space like that. I always try and make up had us myself. So as a photographer, if I hire a makeup artist, I make them do a makeup on me and, you know they put their hands on their manual four here they clamber, hand on your chin and it's, really invasive and it's, not a nice feeling. But somebody like simona tickles your face in almost put you to sleep and it's such a sudden everyone's. Like what question what look like when you have two people coming in way always find that the one that's waiting for their make up. What is she supposed to be doing at that time? I will talk to hear bond with here, show her images. I will talk to him personally. I will give a magazine to make her coffee and get here excited and organized close with here, organized what's gonna happen, get her excited. You know, just I'll do everything I'll take charge of it or just let who watch because most people enjoy that anyway. And then when I swap them over and I take the finnish girl out and leave her in the make up tio I'll give here over to simona and I take my first girl and start I'm finished photographing her so yeah I kind of um just I'll sit with them and just talk to them just provide you know I find a ll fit if groups of girls come in or twos or threes always they want to see the transformation boys never want to stay for the hero makeup there always yawning sea I'll go for a walk come back in an hour question for you simona bb eight six eight do you always do use different shading or darkening techniques for different shapes working this be warned by almost every shape no definitely adjust and it comes down to knowing what you want to push back and pull forward so yeah the contouring so looking at the I know looking where does it look heavy that's where I'm gonna put my darker color there where does it look small I want to open it up and that's where you light and so but it's kind of the same I just adjust it to different eye shapes way have a face map that you can draw on maybe we should met some eye shapes tonight and blend them and then we can load them into their into the keynote so that when you download the pdf you'll have some variations on contouring for different shape buys it's uh, it's just a face met like this that we've drawn out on a piece of paper and you'll be a shaded we'll we'll do some smaller eyes lowbrow high, brown highlighted and we'll do some different shapes for you. Really easy to do in a big good reference to keep. Okay, susan's done. I'm just gonna take these out of corners down a little to make I look bigger on this side form you give I'm just using this angle brush to apply the shadow under her eye pushing, riding to the lash line so what was it about? Susan dies that you wanted to make? And how did it how does it make them bigger than what you just did. So see that's the lowest part of her user that's, the lowest part of her lower lied if I take the lineup right tight up there up to the outer corner. It's just going to emphasize that scoop so I wanted to stretch it out more and bring that low and that's going to make I look bigger. So this part down he said that he's the lowest part of her eye, and I'm stretching it, smoking it out down teo.