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Making Prints

Lesson 46 from: Adobe Lightroom: The Ultimate Guide Bootcamp

Jared Platt

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Lesson Info

46. Making Prints

Lessons

Class Trailer
1

Differences Between Lightroom Desktop and Lightroom Classic

19:42
2

Hard Drives

08:06
3

File Organization

08:31
4

30,000 Foot View of Workflow

05:36
5

Importing into Lightroom

04:10
6

Building Previews

07:14
7

Collections and Publish Services

05:11
8

Keywords

06:27
9

Hardware for Lightroom

06:08
10

Searching for Images

07:51
11

Selecting Images

14:15
12

Organizing Images

04:02
13

Collecting Images for Use

14:56
14

Develop Module Overview

10:15
15

Profiles

11:34
16

Basic Adjustments

11:45
17

Basics Panel: Texture, Clarity, and Dehaze

05:31
18

Basics Panel: Saturation and Vibrance

02:40
19

Tone Curve

09:26
20

HSL

04:48
21

Split Tone

08:19
22

Lens Corrections

08:32
23

Details

09:34
24

Transform Tool

05:52
25

Effects Panel

10:00
26

Synchronizing for Faster Editing

07:40
27

Spot Tool

17:51
28

Skin Softening and Brush Work

07:00
29

Range Masking

13:28
30

Dodge and Burn

17:36
31

Working with Specific Colors

08:30
32

Edit Quickly with Gradient Filters

11:22
33

Making Presets

13:24
34

Preparing Image in Lightroom

09:51
35

Content Aware Fill

11:14
36

Skin Repair

02:44
37

Skin Smoothing

14:39
38

Expanding a Canvas

04:30
39

Liquify

10:22
40

Layers and Composite Images

12:54
41

Sharing via Web

17:52
42

Exporting Files

10:47
43

Sharing with Slideshows

08:00
44

Archiving Photos and Catalogs

19:54
45

Designing

13:35
46

Making Prints

11:27
47

Color Management and Profiles

13:00
48

Archiving Photos and Catalogs

11:31
49

Using Cloud Storage

04:09
50

Adding Images to your Portfolio

09:23
51

Collecting for Your Portfolio

18:03
52

Publishing Unique Websites Per Project

19:48
53

Sharing to Instagram

07:06
54

HDR

15:32
55

Panorama

06:41
56

HDR Panorama

09:54
57

Making Presets

15:39
58

Creating Profiles

18:09
59

Maps

07:08
60

Setup for Tethered Shooting

23:21
61

Sharing with the Client

05:42
62

Watched Folder Process

07:04
63

Second Monitor and iPad

06:09
64

Backup at the Camera

03:50
65

Gnar Box Disk Backup

06:45
66

iPhone and iPad Review

12:52
67

Importing to Lightroom on iPad

02:59
68

Cloud Backup

04:39
69

Adjust, Edit, and Organize

07:46
70

Using Lightroom Between Devices

11:27
71

Lightroom Desktop

05:27
72

Removing Images from the Cloud

10:49
73

Profiles

09:34
74

Light

04:34
75

Color

05:36
76

Effects

15:22
77

Details

08:33
78

Optics

03:49
79

Geometry

04:12
80

Crop

04:39
81

Adding and Using Presets and Profiles

13:41
82

Local Adjustments

15:40
83

Healing Tool

03:29
84

Synchronizing Edits

04:57
85

Editing in Photoshop

08:54
86

Finding Images

07:09
87

Sharing and Exporting Albums on the Web

09:18
88

Posting Images to Social Media

14:01
89

Overview of Lightroom Desktop

07:35
90

The Workflow Overview

10:08
91

Organizing Images

05:10
92

Albums and Shared Albums

18:21
93

Lightroom Desktop Workspace Overview

04:36
94

Importing and Selecting Images

09:23
95

HDR and Panoramics

22:44
96

Light

07:47
97

Profiles

07:23
98

Tone Curves

02:57
99

Color

08:35
100

Effects

17:01
101

Details

12:43
102

Optics

04:05
103

Geometry and Crop Tool

06:01
104

Sync Settings

02:40
105

Making and Adding Presets

03:48
106

Healing Brush

02:21
107

Brush Tool

03:14
108

Gradient Tool

04:16
109

Edit in Photoshop

02:53
110

Finding Images with Sensei

06:32
111

Sharing Albums on the Web

04:57
112

Print through Photoshop

02:09
113

Exporting Images to Files or Web Services

04:36
114

Connecting with Lightroom Classic and Mobile Devices

05:24
115

Archiving Images for Storage

09:55
116

Review of the Workflow

07:20

Lesson Info

Making Prints

another way to share your images in a physical product is through printing. Now the first way to print. Uh, probably the easiest and most reliable way to print is to actually get a J. Peg, export it and send it to a reliable professional printer because they know what they're doing and they know how to color, manage and as long as you export your images. So if I wanted to print this image, I would do an export shift. Command E and I would go in, and I would set up a preset toe export J pegs to my printer, so I'm going to go in and say, OK, digital deliveries. I want a full, high resolution J peg, and then it just sends it on to my desktop. And as a J peg 100%. Never send anything but 100% quality J peg to your printer and make sure it's an S rgb as long as you do that if your printer is any good, if they're professional printer, they will do a fantastic job printing it minus White House custom color, and they do a fantastic job printing anything and everything. And so when I want to pr...

int something. Generally, I'll send it to a White House and have them print it, and then they ship it back to me and I sell it to my client. So that's the first way that you would send something to print and it's easy. You don't have to buy any equipment, and you just have to pay for the print when you get it. But I particularly love having an actual physical printer in my studio and the reason that I like a physical printer in my studio and minus a can and pro printer. But here we're actually using a Cannon Pro 10 printer, but they're all good printers. But the reason I like having a really great printer in my studio is that if I need to make a print right now, if I have a client that needs a print for a special engagement or a special event, or I just want to make some gift prints really quickly and hand them to the client because they're coming over, those types of things are things that I don't wanna have to send it away and wait for a day or plan ahead or wait two days for shipping to get back. So if I want something now, um, it's really good to have a printer. Plus, there are some papers out there that are so fantastic they're just they're fun to hold their fund to touch their their amazing to look at. So the right printer and the right printer paper is a really wonderful thing to look at, so I I just enjoy printing in my studio a lot. It has a personal touch to it, and clients love when they get something that physical. So I never print on like glossy paper at home. I never print on a pearl paper at home. I print on the thick rag type papers that just aren't unique because I want my clients to have a unique product. If I'm gonna be printing it so that its special it's something special, I sign it. I put some notes on it like I make it really special for them, and they love it. Plus, when I'm just printing random art pieces that I've done, it's really fun to just hang them on my wall or give them to friends is prints or gifts I love it. So, uh, we're gonna show you how to print straight from light room. And it's really, really simple. And and the great thing is, your printing from a raw image. So you have a full 16 bit printable files, so that's like the 16 bit printers, especially like my pro 1000 is amazing printer. When it gets those files out, most of the canon printers now will print at 16 bit, so we're gonna show you how to do that. So what we're gonna do is we're gonna take an image, and I just have a collection of images that I wanted to print. So I'm in the library module, I'm in the grid. I've got a bunch of images that I want to print out and show to my clients or give to friends. And so I'm going to go over to the print module. And when I'm in the print module, you'll see that I have a paper. So this is my canvas. And then this is what the photo is gonna look like on that piece of paper. And I've specifically set up by printer for a specific size paper. So when you go to your printers set up dialogue box. It's a matter of choosing a specific size print to paper, so in a three plus paper size is very specific, and you also have to choose your specific printer. So in this case, we're printing to a Canon Pro 10 Siri's piece of paper. We're still going to use an A three plus, which is 13 by 19 and then hit. OK, so that's setting up the printer itself. And the great thing is is doing it straight from light room, so we have the ability to access all these tools straight from light room. Then we can go to the print settings, which is another dialog box inside of your operating system. And when we go to that, we're still again going to choose the correct printer, which is the pro 10 Siri's um, and then we're going to choose the quality of the paper, and then we're going to choose what kind of paper were using. Now it's important for you to know what kind of paper you're supposed to use. And to that end, um, I'm gonna show you how to figure out and how to calibrate for the paper you're using because that's critical in getting a good print. You're not going to let the printer manage the color. You're gonna have light room, managed the color, but in order to do that light room needs some information. So I have a box of paper And this is this cancer on paper, which is amazing paper. And this one is called B f K Rives paper. It's a really toothy, beautiful paper, 13 by 19. But in order to have a good print off of this paper, I need to know what Kant's on the paper itself suggests that I use in all these printer settings. So what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna go to their website and on their website. Well, there it is. There it is. Oops. On their website, there is going to be a list of their papers and you're going to choose the printer you have, which printers of which maker in which printer you have. And once you've chosen that, it's going to give you all of their papers and all of the settings that you would use. So in this case, we're using this B f k rag paper and it's telling us that you should use other fine paper. One other fine art paper. One. That's the kind of paper we would use, um, in this dialog box here. So now I need to go in and click media, and I need to go to fine art papers, other fine art paper one. And remember, every printer is different. So when I'm at home with my Canon Pro 1000 and I choose that on the cans on website, it actually gives me a completely different paper choice to use because the Pro has mawr paper types to choose from. So make sure that you put your specific printer in and then you choose, and then here in the dialogue box, follow their instructions. Um, and then you're going to choose whether you're manually feeding or the rear tray, and you're going to choose the quality and hit save. Okay, so now that you've set up those options, then it's just a matter of going over to the right hand side and choosing how the printer paper is going to look. And in my case, what I've done is I've said I want this to be a 10 by 15 print on a 13 by 19 piece of paper, so it's basically full frame, normal sized photo by 15. Um, and But I could also change that and say, I want it to be huge like that. And so it's going to say, Oh, I'm gonna make it as big as I can possibly make it on this piece of paper. But I like to have a nice wide piece of paper around it makes it look special. I like it s Oh, I'm gonna leave it at that setting. I also have come in here and told it to stroke the border with a 0.3 just a very, very small point line. So it's very tiny line, and it's gray. So I like that cause it kind of separates out if there happens to be any lightness to it, and it it makes it feel like it's a little three dimensional, like I like it, but it's gotta be subtle. I don't like a really thick black line in or anything like that, Um, and then I'm going to come down to the next side. If I show the guides. It shows all of the guidelines that show like where your printer can't print stuff like that. But I don't need to see that. I just want to see what the paper's gonna look like. I can add a background color and choose. You know that, and it'll print it. But I'll be wasting a lot of ink and it will look weird. Um, and then I can choose an identity plate. And this is interesting, because if you are in a position where you don't want to sign it yourself, but you want it signed so you don't want to actually physically sign it, it'll look signed if you just go on to your walking tablet or take a picture of your signature. And then what you need to do is make a P N G file type, so that's like a J peg. That's clear aan den. If you do that when you click here, you can actually edit your signature, and all you do is you use a graphic identity plate. You can see the signature in there and locate the file. Choose that P and G, and it will put it here and just make the file, you know, signature about this big, so that then it consigns it down to the right size. Just make sure it's 300 dp I it this size, um, and then hit. Okay, so I'm using that and you can see that I've got this signature that I could drag anywhere around. And right now it's being rotated at 90 degrees. If I say no rotation, it's ready to go. And then I can put it right here, and it will actually go into into the print. So if I hover over the print somewhere, see, it's going into the print so I can just put it right here, and it will actually look like I just went right into the print, which is fine. Um, so that's the identity plate. If I want it signed, I'm gonna sign it myself. So no big deal. I like to be able to, you know, Skip Kit Chicken. Scratch it. I just kind of do chicken scratch. That's hard to say. Chicken scratch, anyway, so I I just chicken scratch a bunch of information below it. Um, a lot of times, though, if I want to do some text below, I'll actually use this option photo info and I'll click on photo info. And then here is the photo info. And instead of file name, I'll just use GPS and boom. It puts a GPS locator right there, and I love doing that. That's my favorite thing to do is put GPS locations as the information on the photo. I think that's really fun. And so I can do that if I like. Anyway, that's that's a fun option as well.

Class Materials

Bonus Materials with Purchase

Adobe Lightroom Mobile Cloud
Adobe Lightroom Image Pipeline System
Workflow in Adobe Lightroom
BW Preset Collection
Color Art Pro Profiles

Ratings and Reviews

Ira Richterman
 

I am truly a recreational novice in the photography world and this video is fantastic. Photography has become a very technical world both on the camera side as well as post production. Jared has great teaching skills and sure makes it look very simple. I would recommend this video for those starting out in Lightroom as this program can be overwhelming and has a daunting amount of information. I would like to know if there is a resource of location of contact to ask a question or two for clarifications as a viewer goes through the course. For example, when making a new collection and if you choose the option of making this new collection a target collection, what happens if you then make another new collection and select that new collection to be a target collection? If you click on B to add a photo to a target collection and you made two target collections then where does this virtual selection go, ie into which target collection? Thanks Ira irichterma@aol.com

Dan Clarke
 

This class was great. I've never used Lightroom before and now I feel comfortable in it. Massive amount of good info.

Hannah
 

Thorough but very easy to follow. I've noticed a significant improvement in my work since starting this course a couple weeks ago, and I'm also spending noticeably less time editing my photos. I appreciate that it's up-to-date as of October, 2020, so the info is current (I wish CL would take down some of the older courses, since software changes make some of them obsolete).

Student Work

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