Lesson Info

Synchronizing for Faster Editing

and the last thing that I want to tell you. Um, here and and it's it's kind of the overarching. Everything about developing, uhm is in order to get it done quicker, you need to be able to adjust more than one image at a time. And so, to that end, I'm going to take you through again and we're gonna look at metadata. We're going to choose a camera so that we're looking at one specific camera, and I'm going to highlight all of the images. Actually, we'll just do these three here, Um, and there are several ways that you can do it, and it's all based on synchronization and light. Room Classic is where synchronization is super fast and super easy. That's a chief difference between Light Room Classic and the new version of Light rummages called Light on Desktop. Lightened desktop is not very good at synchronization. It's still a copy paste mentality, which is what other software do software makers have done, which is strange that they've they've done that with the new version of Light Room. B...

ut Light from Classic still has a really good set of synchronization tools, and I'm going to show them to you now and then I'm gonna tell you the best thing you can do is spend a little time getting to know all of these synchronization methods so that you can use them to make the job of adjusting everything that we've just talked about. Make that faster. So you have several options. Remember, I talked about this auto sync tool. Well, let's turn it off so that you can see the other tools first. So if I click on one image and I like what I've done to it and I want to apply it to the others I can from this image, I can go to the next image and just simply click the previous button and it will apply all the changes. So one button push from this one to that one. Done. Undo that we're going to try it again. But this time, if I knew what I was going, if I saw this image and I said, This image is perfect and I want all three of these images to be the same, I could simply click on it and then hit the Sync button that has this little dot dot dot next to it. I click on that and it gives me a dialogue box and I can choose specific things that I want to sink. Rise So I could say I want to check all of those. So everything I've done to that image I want done to these, except for the crop, say, I say, each one got cropped differently. And then I synchronized and all three of those just got synchronized. And now all of the work is done on all three of them. Now it's important to recognize that some of the settings that are in there are things like local adjustment. Brush is great. Great great aided filters, radio filters, stuff like that. If you've been retouching the image, it's not gonna copy over all that well, so just be aware that you might want to turn off the local adjustments as well. Okay, so now, in addition to that, let's undo those again So instead and those air all fast. But the faster way to do it is when I'm working on an image and I highlight another set of images. If I'm in the auto sync mode, which I just click on this little toggle switch and I get that lit up Auto Sync, Um, than anything I work on will be done to all of the photographs at the same time, but not the things that I don't work on. So if I take the exposure and brighten it up a little bit, and I take the contrast down and I take the highlights down and I take the shadow up a little bit more and white down a little bit in the black and make it real richer. And if I go into the tone curve and I bring the lights up a little bit and the darks down a little bit and I go over here and I click on one of my oh, let's just do this thin film basic look, that kind of mutes the whole thing, Um And then I come over and warm it up like that, and I'm gonna change it from Adobe Standard to Adobe Portrait. Um, and I'm going to add a little bit of clarity and bring the texture down. Everything that I just worked on is now done on all of these images, so it's got all of them have got the same work done to them, and then all I have to do if I want to work on this one because she's a little bit darker in that one. All I have to do is click on the frame rather than the photo. Just click on the frame and it dese elects all the other ones, and then I can come in and just brighten this one up a little bit more and done so That's a much faster way to work because you're synchronizing your changes at the time you're making them fantastic way to work. So there are three different ways to synchronize Utkan. Click on an image and then click on the pre the next image and hit previous button, and it will steal everything from the one image and put it on the other image. You can also click on an image and then shift click toe a bunch of other images, and you can apply by clicking on the the sink dot, dot, dot button and that will apply images across. So it'll say whatever's on this image based on the choices you make inside that dialogue box. That's what's going to get applied, and then the final and fastest way to sink is auto synchronization, where you're just simply you're looking at a set of images like this and you say I know that if I work on all four, these images, they're all going to be the same cause I can see that. And so I'm going to let me just reset this and I'm going to go choose, uh, Adobe portrait. Brighten this up, take the temperature down there. Done, and all of them have been done. So I've got four images for the price of one. And quite frankly, you'll find that if you live in auto Sync like I do, you can actually adjust almost, you know, 50 100 sometimes an entire job all at one time, and get everything pretty much close to where it needs to be. And then it's just a matter of going in. And if you know one image is a little bit too bright, you can highlight those two images that are a little too bright and bring that down and bring the highlights down, and then you're done, and you only had to do to sliders on those two images, and so auto sync is where you need to live. So we've just talked about the entire develop module, talked about all of the settings that you can use, but most importantly are those basic ones. The ones in the basic area are the ones that you should work on most often, and then everything below that minus the transform tool is something that you can create a preset for, like we did with the, uh with the tone curve. Make a preset, put it in the preset areas so that now all you need to do is work on your images here. When the basic module go to the left and apply a preset toe, add the style that you want, and if you are doing all of that while using the sink methods that we just described, you'll be able to get through. The process of developing your image is extremely quickly, and you'll have a lot of power behind you when you're doing it. So that is the develop module

Class Description

Lessons

1. Differences Between Lightroom Desktop and Lightroom Classic
2. Hard Drives
3. File Organization
4. 30,000 Foot View of Workflow
5. Importing into Lightroom
6. Building Previews
7. Collections and Publish Services
8. Keywords
9. Hardware for Lightroom
10. Searching for Images
11. Selecting Images
12. Organizing Images
13. Collecting Images for Use
14. Develop Module Overview
15. Profiles
16. Basic Adjustments
17. Basics Panel: Texture, Clarity, and Dehaze
18. Basics Panel: Saturation and Vibrance
19. Tone Curve
20. HSL
21. Split Tone
22. Lens Corrections
23. Details
24. Transform Tool
25. Effects Panel
26. Synchronizing for Faster Editing
27. Spot Tool
28. Skin Softening and Brush Work
29. Range Masking
30. Dodge and Burn
31. Working with Specific Colors
32. Edit Quickly with Gradient Filters
33. Making Presets
34. Preparing Image in Lightroom
35. Content Aware Fill
36. Skin Repair
37. Skin Smoothing
38. Expanding a Canvas
39. Liquify
40. Layers and Composite Images
41. Sharing via Web
42. Exporting Files
43. Sharing with Slideshows
44. Archiving Photos and Catalogs
45. Designing
46. Making Prints
47. Color Management and Profiles
48. Archiving Photos and Catalogs
49. Using Cloud Storage
50. Adding Images to your Portfolio
51. Collecting for Your Portfolio
52. Publishing Unique Websites Per Project
53. Sharing to Instagram
54. HDR
55. Panorama
56. HDR Panorama
57. Making Presets
58. Creating Profiles
59. Maps
60. Setup for Tethered Shooting
61. Sharing with the Client
62. Watched Folder Process
63. Second Monitor and iPad
64. Backup at the Camera
65. Gnar Box Disk Backup
66. iPhone and iPad Review
67. Importing to Lightroom on iPad
68. Cloud Backup
69. Adjust, Edit, and Organize
70. Using Lightroom Between Devices
71. Lightroom Desktop
72. Removing Images from the Cloud
73. Profiles
74. Light
75. Color
76. Effects
77. Details
78. Optics
79. Geometry
80. Crop
81. Adding and Using Presets and Profiles
82. Local Adjustments
83. Healing Tool
84. Synchronizing Edits
85. Editing in Photoshop
86. Finding Images
87. Sharing and Exporting Albums on the Web
88. Posting Images to Social Media
89. Overview of Lightroom Desktop
90. The Workflow Overview
91. Organizing Images
92. Albums and Shared Albums
93. Lightroom Desktop Workspace Overview
94. Importing and Selecting Images
95. HDR and Panoramics
96. Light
97. Profiles
98. Tone Curves
99. Color
100. Effects
101. Details
102. Optics
103. Geometry and Crop Tool
104. Sync Settings
105. Making and Adding Presets
106. Healing Brush
107. Brush Tool
108. Gradient Tool
109. Edit in Photoshop
110. Finding Images with Sensei
111. Sharing Albums on the Web
112. Print through Photoshop
113. Exporting Images to Files or Web Services
114. Connecting with Lightroom Classic and Mobile Devices
115. Archiving Images for Storage
116. Review of the Workflow